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Penny Lane
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Satan's slit T 
Balding For Dollars S 
Body Snatcher , The S 
Clandestine Affair T 
Climb & Punishment T 
Crime of the Century T 
Drain Evader T,TR 
Hangover T 
Health Hazard T 
Kahoukers T 
Partners In Crime T 
Penny Lane T 
Popeye and the Raven S 
Power Windows T,S 
Quarryman T 
Red Rocket T 
Short People T 
Sunny Days in December T 
Ugly American (aka Ugly Anders) T 
Up, Up and Away T 
Werewolves of London T 
Witch Doctor's Apprentice, The T 
Yorkshire Gripper T 
Unsorted Routes:

Werewolves of London 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: P. Croft, T. Knight '79
Page Views: 1,433
Submitted By: John Wilder on Jul 31, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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About to make the crack switch. Photo by Flint

Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A fine route at the far right end of Penny Lane, this route starts on the left side of a low slab, crosses the slab (bolt), and gains a finger crack on the right side. Follow the crack up, stepping left where its obvious to gain the top.

Location 

Far right side of Penny Lane. Look for the striking finger crack that starts about 15' up a slab.

Protection 

Gear to hand sized.


Photos of Werewolves of London Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Following up Werewolves
Following up Werewolves

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By Mr. Stevens
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 16, 2013

Fantastic climb - one of the older Squamish guidebooks rates it 5.11c, which seemed about right. Felt quite a bit harder than "Partners In Crime", which is just a few climbs over and rated 5.11a.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 22, 2014

imho, if Crime of the Century is 11c, i'd have a hard time calling this the same. This felt quite a bit easier, although if you're shorter, that step across might feel really hard. My 5'0" partner had to work much harder to get into the crack than I did. Maybe split the difference and call it 11b?
By Mark van Eijk
Mar 2, 2015
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

A beautiful, varied, and exceedingly fun climb. It doesn't seem to get as crowded as the other classics of the grade in the area and is usually the first to dry (in my experience this is one of the fastest drying routes in squamish).

The opening moves are quite technical and I find them to be every bit as challenging as the hardest on crime of the century. However, this route has longer easy sections and better rests. I agree 11b seems more in line with other grades in the area.

Be mindful about placing adequate protection for the follower in the initial crack. Blowing it at the crux can result in a lengthy swing into some sharp blocks.

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