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Wendell Spire

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bag of Tricks aka Flake S 
Beak, The S 
Black Streak, The S 
Bob's Nob S 
Castlewood Capers S 
Cheesedick Soiree S 
Cobble Wobble S 
Horizontal Bop S 
Icerigger S 
Nob Job S 
Noodlers' Nightmare S 
Nose Job S 
Phalloid Void S 
Pit Viper S 
Pocket, The S 
Prarie Dog S 
Ruse, The S 
Seamless aka Knappweed Infestation S 
Sidewinder S 
Slot, The S 
Song of the Wood S 
Sub, The S 
Sun Cave Direct S 
Sun Cave Right S 
Svengali S 
Textured Landscape S 
Triskaidekaphobia S 
Unsorted Routes:

Wendell Spire Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 25, 2001
This Afternoon

81° | 43°

75° | 46°

82° | 50°

77° | 45°

67° | 42°

57° | 39°
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Wendell Spire is actually a sector of the East Canyon rim. It is demarcated on the right (East) by Wendell Spire, which as Tom Hanson points out is a true "summit", being a 40 foot detached pinacle. Routes have been installed West along the wall for close to 400 feet where a natural break in the wall separates them from the Corporate View Block (and more climbing).

The climbing begins on the Spire proper. The Wendell Spire area is characterized by typical CWC conglomerate stone. However, the rock here is overall much steeper than at any other place in CWC and as such hosts the most difficult climbing at CWC. Most routes are in the 5.11 to 5.12 domain, although one of the best hard lines in CWC, at 5.13b, is present in the Wendell Spire area. A few warm-up routes exist, along with perhaps the easiest bolted line in the Front Range, at 5.6.

Some of the FAs can be well documented in the Wendell Spire area, although much of the FA data are impossible to attribute. The FA crew often worked with several folks on a line at one time. However, the main crew spinning drills included the notorious Mr. Big (aka Tom Hanson), Tod Anderson, Richard Wright, Scott Sills, Mike Lane, and Pat Burwick.

While all of the routes top out between 40 to 60 feet, bring the guns anyway. The climbing is pumpy, difficult, and fun. As a South-facing wall, the Wendell Spire area offers great sun for most of the day. Strictly for convenience and to impose some order on the numbering, I have called Phalloid Void on the spire proper #1, with numbering running right to left. Hopefully this will be fixable when the West limit of this area can be defined.

Getting There 

Get to Wendell Spire from the East Canyon Visitor's Center. Park at the West paved lot, and stroll down through the picnic area to a marked trail that takes you down to the creek. Follow the trail across the creek and head down-stream (left!); pass the phallic block in the trail, and several hundred feet further take small but obvious trial up to the climbing. This will deposit you at the base of Ruse, Wendell Spire is to the right about 100 feet.

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.8 miles from here

27 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Wendell Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Wendell Spire:
Phalloid Void   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Cobble Wobble   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Nob Job   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
The Beak   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Cheesedick Soiree   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Song of the Wood   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
The Sub   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
The Black Streak   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Wendell Spire

Featured Route For Wendell Spire
Rock Climbing Photo: The opening campus moves.

The Black Streak 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c  Colorado : Denver South : ... : Wendell Spire
In my opinion, this is easily one of the top 3 routes at [Castlewood]. It is between The Sub and Seamless.A jump start followed by some powerful campus moves gets you to the first bolt. Then some technical crimping on small pebbles and slopey little dishes lead to a toss for the big obvious jug. Get a shake, then crank a couple easier moves until you are at the crux. It's a big toss left to a crappy little rock, get your feet on, and you're home free. The top, aft...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of Wendell Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Wendell Spire in January- full snow in the backgro...
Wendell Spire in January- full snow in the backgro...
Rock Climbing Photo: Snowmelt over The Sub and Black Streak.
Snowmelt over The Sub and Black Streak.

Comments on Wendell Spire Add Comment
Show which comments
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Dec 8, 2001
See Phalloid Void for a right sector photo and The Beak for a left sector photo.
From: Englewood, CO
Oct 27, 2003
Anybody been on Cheesedick Soriee? I was wondering if they could confirm the 12a rating on it. Just wondering what others think of it. I thought it was not that hard.
By Chris Cavallaro
Aug 24, 2006
I came extremely close to getting bitten by a rattler last night. It was right off the main canyon trail near the cutoff to Wendell. This guy was big, and he even snapped at me! Be Careful!!!!

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