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End Pinnacle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Be All, End All T 
Cap'm Pissgums T 
Days of Future Passed T 
Endgame T 
Great Gig in the Sky T 
Jimmywacky T,S 
Magnus Veritas T,S 
Poetry in Motion T 
Son of Gums T 
Uncarved Block T 
Unknown (L of Endgame) S 
Welcome to the Machine T,S 

Welcome to the Machine 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 400', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Scott Ayers, Mark Colby, 1995
Page Views: 5,198
Submitted By: ttriche on Dec 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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Sweet variation dudes!

Closed from March 1 to June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route starts in the deep cleft just to the right of the slab where Endgame begins, following a line of bolts up a rounded arete festooned with chickenheads and some blank slabby bits.

The first two pitches (can be linked with a 70m and possibly with a 60m rope as well) go straight up the blunt, bolted arete punctuated by two-bolt belays with colossal Metolius rap hangers at each. Endgame meets WTTM in an alcove of sorts at the second belay and then veers right; a suggested linkup is Endgame to WTTM, or WTTM to Endgame, rejoining on the ledge where all south face End Pinnacle routes seem to converge. The 5.10c/d cruxes on pitch 3 are supposedly more like 5.10a/b if a person faces out and right, and in any event are tightly bolted; a fall would be inconsequential. WTTM to Endgame is 5.10a, Endgame to WTTM is 5.10c/d, both are sport bolted at the cruxes.

After pitch 3, mid-sized cams are needed if a person wishes to shorten the runouts as the angle begins to ease off. WTTM crosses the bulging belly of the pinnacle higher up above where Endgame shoots off to the right, but rejoins the latter route on the big ledge where everything seems to converge. Take your pick of the final pitch to the top.

Location 

Between Endgame and Great Gig in the Sky / Days of Future Passed, this route follows the rounded, featured arete just to the left of the deep recess behind the house-sized boulder that marks the initial bolted traverse of Endgame's 1st pitch. Go straight up.

Protection 

Many draws, slings, small to medium cams for p4


Photos of Welcome to the Machine Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Corey Ellison trending left on the amazing first p...
Corey Ellison trending left on the amazing first p...
Rock Climbing Photo: After the 4th pitch, move the belay to the right a...
After the 4th pitch, move the belay to the right a...
Rock Climbing Photo: Begining the crux 3rd pitch, it is closely bolted,...
Begining the crux 3rd pitch, it is closely bolted,...
Rock Climbing Photo: Wyatt following the 2nd pitch, almost in the sun!
Wyatt following the 2nd pitch, almost in the sun!
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the first pitch
View of the first pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Just before the business on the first pitch.
Just before the business on the first pitch.

Comments on Welcome to the Machine Add Comment
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By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 30, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

A topo for this route is available by clicking this link:

toofasttopos.com/free/

Note that this climb is on two faces, the W face and SW face. You will need the topo for the SW face of end pinnacle for the final pitch to the summit.
By Justin York
From: Phoenix, AZ
Nov 23, 2009
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The description (and look) of WTTM p1 didn't compare to endgame p1, so we did the following linkup that I HIGHLY recommend: Endgame pitches 1 and 2 (WTTM p2 is mostly same of endgame p2 anyway), WTTM pitches 3 and 4, finish on engame p5. Thoroughly enjoyed pitch 3! Neat, thought-provoking moves. Used only one piece (#3 cam) on p4, so don't overdo the rack you may bring up. IMHO, p4 was 5.9ish.

I would give the link-up 4 stars!

Saw a new finish for p5 above the big ledge. Would be a pretty direct finish to WTTM. If it wasn't late in the day we probably would have tried it. It was a bolted pitch probably about 40 feet rock left of the anchors for days of future passed. Any idea of the rating on this?
By Stu Ritchie
From: Denver
Feb 27, 2011

Agreed, Endgame pitch 1 into WTTM, finishing on Endgame's 5th is a 4 star route!
I noticed the newer rap set-up off the summit down the front and would not recomend it in windy conditions. It's just too simple to go down the traditional rappels through the chimney and out the window.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Nov 9, 2015

This route has what a friend refers to as an entrance, fee which is in the form of slightly dubious rock at the crux. Fortunately, it is well bolted but you need to be careful with the big hold at the crux. It definitely flexes and it might hurt your belayer if it hits him.
By Paul Zander
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 14, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I guess I found the .10a/b method cause I thought the 3rd pitch was comparable in difficulty to Forest Lawn, and much easier than Pair a grins.

Agree with Justin that a #3 is all you really need rack wise. If you're new to the area and looking at Endgame/WTTM, and wondering what to bring my recommendation is this: bring nuts and slings (useful for p1&2 on WTTM), a 0.4 (start of endgame p5), 0.75 (endgame p3), and 3 (WTTM p4). That rack should be plenty for both routes (and 5.10 is near my leading limit).

Did the lefthand finish off the big ledge to the top. It is all bolted, has fun movement, but is marred by a few manufactured holds. Probably 10+/11-?
By Joe Silver
From: Tucson, AZ
5 days ago

Did pitch 3 and 4 as a variation to Endgame this weekend. Agree with Paul that this feels significantly easier than Pair a Grins. Also, perhaps I'm a wimp, but I would have been more comfortable if I had more than just a #3 BD C4. While not strictly necessary (I survived), I think a single set of .75 - 3 would be a lot nicer. The .75 and 1 can even be placed on P3 to help justify carrying them. I'll probably also bring a couple offset nuts next time to evaluate how bomber those intermittent small pockets on P4 are.