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Welcome to the Gunks T 

Welcome to the Gunks 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Andy Cairns & Jim Kolocotronis - 1973
Page Views: 12,453
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (93)
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First roof. The real fun begins on the slab getti...


Welcome to the Gunks is a nice little single-pitch climb that passes through multiple roofs!

Begin below tiered roofs at the center of a low roof with two crack/flake systems which is right of Tequila Mockingbird and Dry Martini. The access trail for Welcome to the Gunks is about an 8-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 4-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.

The first bit is difficult and scary - unprotected moves on slopers will get you to some decent gear. Above this there is another runout through the second roof, but fortunately the rest of the climb is well-protected.

A 2-bolt anchor (2015) gets you to the ground with one 60m rope.


Standard Rack.

Photos of Welcome to the Gunks Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Becky Diamond on the first roof.
Becky Diamond on the first roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Alissa at the last gear until the 2nd roof.
Alissa at the last gear until the 2nd roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting into the first roof.
Getting into the first roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Taking advantage of the full body rest after the &...
Taking advantage of the full body rest after the &...
Rock Climbing Photo: The tiered roofs of Welcome - Tricia is above the ...
The tiered roofs of Welcome - Tricia is above the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Becky below the second roof.
Becky below the second roof.

Comments on Welcome to the Gunks Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 8, 2017
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 7, 2006

This used to be rated 5.9. We thought it had five 5.9 cruxes: the slab, the first roof, the scary moves to the second roof, the second roof itself (the actual crux), and the roof on P2.

The slab approach was always scary for me, and the second roof never felt easy. If you do P2, you have a bunch of junky climbing above the P2 crux as you wander up and eventually a bit right to a tree that you can belay and rap from.
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 30, 2009

I thought this was the hardest 5.10 that I have ever followed at the Gunks. Perhaps it was late in the day (our last climb), but I rarely fall on a Gunks 10. I fell three times on this climb. The slab was difficult (hard to reach the big holds for this short climber), the roofs were easy relative to the R section on the orange rock. I took a fall trying to move from the slopers to the horizontal under the roof. All in all, a hard climb, I thought much harder than Feast of Fools, Interstice, Mothers Day party, Retribution, Nose dive etc. I am not sure I would repeat this any time soon.
By SethG
Nov 30, 2010

As I figure it the cruxes are:

1. The face before roof # 1;
2. Roof # 1;
3. The face before roof # 2;
4. Roof # 2; and
5. Roof # 3.

Roof #4 is much easier than the others and then it is easy climbing up and right to the belay tree. I did this on toprope and my hat is off to anyone who can calmly lead it! (Please don't think I am suggesting I sent the thing-- I fell several times at roof number 2 and then again at roof #3.) The route is difficult, varied, and it just keeps presenting new challenges, although there are good rests as well. I am amazed anyone ever called this a 5.9!
Dec 5, 2010

My SO Scott led this as the highlight of his season, and with Seth's and his help, I've fixed it up.

He specifically wanted to point out the scary 5.9R below the second roof (though you get good gear for the roof itself). Cheers, JSH
By SethG
Dec 5, 2010

Thanks, Julie. Looks good now!
By chris_vultaggio
From: The Gunks
Oct 5, 2011

One of the best 10s in the gunks - tricky start and spicy moves before the crux keep the blood going.
By Denis O'Connor
Nov 14, 2011

A block has broken off at the top of the initial slab section for the right hand start variation, which is also the start of Laughing Man. The variation is still possible, but it is more difficult than before, and it is especially more difficult if you don't realize the block is gone until you are in the middle of the sequence.

This does not affect the left start, which is pretty much directly underneath the first roof.
By paulmadry
May 21, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

I wish I read Dennis's report above about the fallen hold. The initial slab on the right was ouch, especially if you don't put any pro. I did the route a few years ago and it seemed more enjoyable, maybe because of the hold was there - I never remember any beta details, but maybe I got fatter.
My question is: where is the R section above the first roof? I'd say initial slab may be R but not after. Also, after the crux roof #2 should I go up/right or up/left?
By rogerbenton
Jul 21, 2014

Wow. This thing is brutal.
Be very concious of rope drag, the last two roofs are probably much more fun without it.
By Pawel Janowski
From: WA
Nov 24, 2014

Wow what a climb!!

The comments about the left and right variation starts had me confused (the two options are not described in the route description). I would say go for the left variation which has solid holds and is relatively easy (5.8?).

I didn't think the "scary" face above roof #1 was poorly protected. You have to make a thin move above gear, but the gear is solid. On the other hand I had trouble finding good gear at Roof #2 and ended up backing off. The gear is solid, but it's easier once you find the right spot and the right piece. Also, there's a fixed rusty old cam underneath that roof to help as you figure out the gear you'll actually be falling on at the crux ;)

Roof #4 may be easier than the other three but with the pump and mental drain it's still pretty challenging.
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Apr 9, 2015

I thought the orange face below the crux roof was well protected for the face itself, but the stand up move to the stance below the crux is very balancy and will be harder when that block eventually gets yanked out. How it's even holding on now is beyond me. If you blew it clipping from the crunched stance below the roof you would probably smack the low-angle area above the first roof pretty hard. I can see this one sketchy part warranting a PG-13 or R rating. Other than that one spot the climb is well protected by Gunks standards.
By kevin neville
From: Somerville, MA
May 17, 2015

Unfortunately, I can now testify that it is very possible to bust one's ankle by falling just before the second roof. The gear was good (0.3 on the left, 0.75 on the right, on doubles), but it was 3 feet below my feet. Plus the sling and even minimal slack in the system, that's 15 feet to accelerate before the rope starts to come taught, and the lower-angled section just above the first roof came up fast. Great route, have fun, but take that move seriously.
By SethG
May 17, 2015

Whoa, hope you are okay. Did you break anything?
By kevin neville
From: Somerville, MA
May 18, 2015

Minor fracture of the distal fibula. No surgery, not sure how many weeks I'll be out.

Thinking about it, not sure if there were more gear options up and right? Or, use a stiffer rope (a single plus a half rope) to reduce stretch. Or, next time I might bring an aid hook -- there's an incut ledge, used as a handhold and then a foothold, and if a hook held it would reduce the fall by ~6 feet.
By SethG
May 19, 2015

I'm sorry. Glad it wasn't worse for you.
By Jon Po
From: Mahwah, NJ
Mar 27, 2016
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

I found the most PG13 part of this route to be the first slab. An attentive belayer will probably keep you off the ground but it will be close. The bulge before the second roof was pretty well protected with great gear only a foot or 2 under your feet(you can literally build an anchor here if you want). If you make it over the first roof without falling, you will most likely be fine through the PG13 section. Such an awesome route! The roofs just keep coming!
By Alissa Doherty
From: Boston, MA
Sep 26, 2016

Adding to the chorus of folks who found the orange face below the second roof to be scary. I didn't mind the run-out below the first roof at all (5.8 climbing) and thought the moves through the first roof were easier than the orange face above it.

I'm short and wasn't able to reach the crimp without some serious acrobatics involving the single pad gaston. Once at the crimp, I was completely extended and fell on my 00 trying to eke out more reach. It was an okay spot to fall but falling above wouldn't have been okay, as Kevin testified above. I'd love to watch a fellow short person do this with more grace...
By chewtoynj
From: NJ
Jun 15, 2017

Toproped successfully yesterday. super amazing route. tons of rests in between roofs. Be very mindful of the loose block (the main handhold) directly under roof 2. It's hollow and creaks. The new anchors at the top are very much appreciated :)
By B Rick
From: Philadelphia
Aug 26, 2017

Great route. Basically G after the beginning. Second runout has gear at your feet.
By Systematic
Oct 8, 2017
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

I love everything about this route.

Keep it straight and climb the 4th roof. :)
New anchors very much appreciated.

Welcome to the Gunks.

  • **Gear beta***

You can protect it well with just cams doubles of 0.2-0.5, and 1x 0.75-2. A couple extra 0.5 size cams allow you to sew it up completely for followers too.

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