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Welcome To Rondoland (aka Glenda's Crack) 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R [details]
FA: Jay Smith, Robert Finley, Rondo Powell 1989
Page Views: 50
Submitted By: Murf on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Scramble up a ramp to belay. Begin up and right, then move left with the crack. Power, balance, and technique all come into play as one moves past the dwindling crack. Continue back left as the crack reappears.

Without HB brass, this route would deserve an "R" rating; even with, it may deserve a "PG".

Protection 

Gear to 2". Thin tcu's/aliens and brass a must! Gear anchor.


Comments on Welcome To Rondoland (aka Glenda's Crack) Add Comment
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By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 25, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R

This certainly deserves the "R" . There is no way on earth, with brass or no brass that this would warrant a "PG" pro rating. Crux moves involve almost horizonal liebacking well above last pro which is in less than ideal rock. Small aliens will get you about 1/3 of the way up the crack, after that, good luck. Take brass offsets, but good luck placing it, and even if you frig one in, you will not want to whip on it. There's nothing really tricky about the climbing, no worries about botching a sequence or getting crossed up, just some liebacking off one side then the other. If you get snail eye, there is a two bolt .10c pitch just right that you could bail into. Makes a great TR because the climbing is really fun.
By Murf
Nov 30, 2006

I remember getting sufficient brass that I felt the route was PG. I don't consider myself particularly bold, or exceptional at gear placement.

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