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Welcome to ol' Kentuck 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Steve Petro
Page Views: 8,211
Submitted By: Orphaned on Nov 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Me working the nemesis. First of three in the WTM...


This is the super obvious overhanging finger crack just right of Brontosaurus. Climb up the easy gully on the left then hit the crack. A couple flared handjams lead to good fingers lead to bad fingers lead to good fingers again. All at a very steep angle.


A hand size piece at the start, a 1 camalot, and two .4's. For me anyway. I used a lot more while sussing it out but pared down once I thought I had a chance.

Photos of Welcome to ol' Kentuck Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Placing the last piece of gear, a .4 camalot, from...
Placing the last piece of gear, a .4 camalot, from...

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By m-earle
From: USA
Apr 4, 2009

I believe the original name for this was "The Nazi Bitch Crack." Or something to that effect.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 5, 2009

That is true- it was renamed when it got freed. NBC was the name of the "aid" ascent.
By JamesW
Apr 9, 2009

By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Nov 21, 2011

Just a note, my gear list, once I was done hangdogging it:

equalized 3 & 4 camalot for an anchor off the ledge, then a .75 camalot, then two .4 camalots. This sets you up for a significant fall if you blow the final moves, but there really aren't that many other good spots to place gear from.

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