REI Community
Little Baldy
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Heads T 
Bit By Bit T 
Crazy Bald Heads T 
Hair Raising T 
Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow S 
Hairbrain T 
Merkin, The T 
Middle Size White Boys T 
Prodenominator S 
Regular Route T 
Skinhead S 
Sparkler S 
Tapestry T 
Welcome to Little Baldy T 

Welcome to Little Baldy 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Rich Smith and Herb Laeger, September 1983
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 1,910
Submitted By: limpingcrab on Apr 21, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Time for the big stuff

Always check road conditions and peregrine closures MORE INFO >>>


An excellent route ascending a natural line up the tallest and steepest part of the face. The climb requires a variety of techniques including liebacking, friction and several sizes of cracks.

One of the few all trad routes on Little Baldy. The only bolts are the anchor at the top of the first pitch. It's a very good route that will only get better with time and little more traffic. It may be 5.9 if the crux corner gets a little more clean.

Please climb this route!

P1: Ascend the left leaning corner/crack system until you see two anchor bolts off to the left.

P2: Continue up the same system, through the crux corner, until a small roof. Skirt around the small roof to the right and walk up and left to belay at the base of the arching crack (5.10a).

P3: Follow the fun, clean arching crack up. As it turns left it gets wider but can be climbed without many off-width moves (Unless you didn't bring big gear and have to try to place gear in the back of the crack as you squirm up and get your knee stuck!). Belay where the arching crack ends.

P4: Climb up the small left facing dihedral through the big ear/flake thing. A big piece comes in handy here. Friction off the belay is the hardest part of this pitch. Belay once you get to 4th class at a large right facing roof/corner.

Walk to the top and high five!


The start is left of a giant dirty looking left facing corner near where you hit the rock on the approach from the road (see photos)


Doubles from small to 2" with one #3, two big pieces and a set of nuts. Two #5s would probably be best, but a #4 and #5 or #5 and #6 would work.

Photos of Welcome to Little Baldy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Topping out
Topping out
Rock Climbing Photo: The third pitch crack in the top center, nice!
The third pitch crack in the top center, nice!
Rock Climbing Photo: There's the start, climb up the middle of the pict...
BETA PHOTO: There's the start, climb up the middle of the pict...
Rock Climbing Photo: I call camera tilt!
I call camera tilt!

Comments on Welcome to Little Baldy Add Comment
Show which comments
By limpingcrab
From: Visalia, CA
Apr 21, 2013

I gave this four stars for it's potential after a bit of traffic
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
May 30, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

3.5 stars only because of the little traffic this gets and the amount of moss on it. It would easily be 4 star classic if all those bushes and moss weren't in the way.

Partner and I did this is 3 pitches. I lead pitch one, he did 2 and then link 3/4 together with a 70m rope.

I did a variation when I followed pitch 2 into the giant ledge above. At the small roof, he followed the description and went out right through some slab climbing. I followed and went left because his piece after the slab fell out and I didnt want to take a giant swing if I fell. Going out left was a pretty cool varation and climbs over a small roof on jugs. Maybe a v1/v2 boulder move that can be easily protected if done on lead. Great climb over all. We had a #4 and #5 C4 and a tricam equal to #6 c4. He placed each one but couldve placed smaller stuff further back in the crack.
By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Apr 24, 2015

The last two pitches are pretty dang classic and the first two are definitely good at times. I thought the beginning of the 2nd and beginning of the 4th to be pretty heads up. At the end of the 3rd, one should downclimb a short ways to belay. Linking 3 and 4 is good beta except i thought the #5 was nice to have on the 4th. The 2nd pitch might be 5.9 if clean, but the 4th is clean and for sure 5.10. Didn't know limpingcrab was a sandbagger ;)

I'm curious how most people choose to start the first pitch..

1 #4 and 1 #5 seemed perfect.

The giant flake on the 4th is freakin out of this world and not as intimidating as it looks from below. It's like laybacking in space
By Dakota R
May 30, 2016

This was my first climb in the Sequoia's and it was good. I would definitely agree with Brian's comment about the spicy sections on the 2nd and 4th pitch(get some good gear in above the 3rd pitch's anchor before pulling those thin, delicate moves). I too built my belay at a good stance after a little down climbing at the end of the 3rd pitch. Although the flake felt amazing to climb on I was definitely hesitant to pull hard on it. My lady friend told me at the end of the climb that she had visions of it crashing down on her and cutting the rope! Fortunately, the actual climbing on the flake was quite easy in comparison to the start of the pitch. Fun climb with a relatively easy(a little overgrown) approach and a well maintained trail to walk off. Just remember...Nature provides!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About