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Welcome to Jam Rock S 

Welcome to Jam Rock 

YDS: 5.14b French: 8c Ewbanks: 33 UIAA: X+ ZA: 33 British: E9 7b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.14b French: 8c Ewbanks: 33 UIAA: X+ ZA: 33 British: E9 7b [details]
FA: Chris Sharma
Page Views: 84
Submitted By: Mikael Fortin on Mar 17, 2016

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Description 

The hardest route at Orford to date, and until recently, the hardest route in the province.

Climb up the Parasol slab to a good rest, then undercling up and right to the base of an obvious pillar. Squeeze the pillar, clip, then move past a long reach, very poor slopers and shouldery moves on a sloping ledge to an obvious pair of perfect crimps. Ponder the distance to the great big jug and find a way to dyno up there. It will most likely involve a very awkward, powerful and difficult to coordinate sequence. Take a breath and finish up the weird slab, dihedrals and roof to the anchor.

This route an excellent combination of powerful and technical sequences, up perfect rock. Very bouldery, with barely any rests. It packs a dense sequence of 15 to 20 moves, the hardest of them being the last one.

It has seen a few ascents over the years, but remains a substancial challenge and has repelled the efforts of many seasoned 5.14 climbers.

Location 

The overhanging pillar above Parasol which is the rightmost start on the hanging slab.

Protection 

12 permadraws to fixed biners at anchor.


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