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Alloy Madness S 
Double Hung S 
Fire Widow aka Gypsies in the Palace S 
High Seas S 
Left of Left of PortSide S,TR 
Port Side T 
Repeat Offender S 
Slab-a-dab-a-doo T,S 
Unknown Left of Port Side S 
Void Where Prohibited S 
Welcome to Dystopia S 

Welcome to Dystopia 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Alvino Pon
Page Views: 155
Submitted By: Matt Juth on Jun 10, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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This is the next route right from Fire Widow. Begin climbing from the ledge, and pull a bouldery move past the first bolts (5.9). continue up the slab with a thin seam to the headwall. Climb past two 5.10 sections on the headwall, and belay at the anchors.

Rappel with two ropes, or swing to the right 85' to reach the anchors on Alloy Madness. A single 60m will JUST barely make it to the ledge that you can downclimb. If you forget knots, you will get hurt!


11 bolts.

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By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Jul 23, 2007

This always seems far better then Fire Widow to me. Fire Widow is just one really irritating slab move, and lots of easy stuff, but this is steeper and more sustained.

It is just possible to lower your partner to the first bolt, and the ledge underneath, with a single 60m rope. Be careful! From here it is an easy downclimb for 15 feet.
By John Dubya
Aug 25, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This is a heady on-sight with sustained, technical moves and interesting gaps between bolts. Really good!

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