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Weight and Balance Check 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Buddy Brasington, Les Duncan
Page Views: 976
Submitted By: Mike Reardon on Jan 31, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Bennett Harris on Weight and balance check.


P1: very thin, sequential face moves with the trickiest section near the 4th bolt at the top 5.10+. Belay at tree

P2: Great! Undercling to TCU's to 4 bolts and a bolted anchor. Nice hidden crimps and a high reach roof


20 feet right of "5.8 Crack", begin at left leaning flakes down low to a crimpy face


4-5 bolts P1, 4 bolts P2 with tcu's intermixed

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By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Feb 21, 2011

I've always felt like the crux is at the first bolt. There is some pump that follows at the top. The first, third, and fourth bolts are tough to clip if you are short.
By Jeff Jenkins
Dec 19, 2011

Tricky moves , hard 10 P1 but P2 is the best part.
By Scott Gilliam
From: Raleigh, NC
Feb 23, 2012

I skip the last bolt on the first pitch, finding it easier to climb out left. Makes for a bit of a run to the anchors, but whatever.
By chris mcguigan
From: belmont, nc
Nov 10, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

High quality climb P2 is awesomely good and P1 is great too.
By Corey Flynn
From: USA
Feb 24, 2015

FYI Les Duncan should be cocredited on the FA of this one, as he and Buddy would always refer to it as "our route" whenever they took me climbing at the bald. Two of my favorite climbers, tricky first pitch

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