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Weevil Knevil 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Sprague 11/98
Page Views: 2,676
Submitted By: lee hansche on Sep 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (56)
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Alexandre Rivest high on Weevil Knevil

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>


A fun and somewhat varied route. There is a boulder problem crux and a pump crux. The rock is interesting with quarts deposits making for some cool moves.

Climb the first moderate boulder problem off the ground to a nice rest before the crux bulge (its only 10 feet up but I never refuse a rest when offered one). Head up and left on jugs till they run out, clip a bolts and head up in to the business. Most people favor a sneaky undercling to gain a good right hand to get situated on the steeps. A few more powerful moves get you to a mid way ledge. Milk the rest and work your way up the corner above laying back and making some sequency moves to gain the slightly sloping lip (this might be tough if you are pumped). Find the good holds and clip the chains. Topping out is fun and sometimes easier than hanging to clip.

This might be a good 5.12 to do as your first if it fits your style. Its not hard in the grade but definitely 5.12.


Middle left end of the cliff just right of the corner of barking spiders (5.11c)


8 bolts to chains with fixed lower biners...

Photos of Weevil Knevil Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A- Air and Pleasant Danger 5.8 B- Short Wave 5.11b...
BETA PHOTO: A- Air and Pleasant Danger 5.8 B- Short Wave 5.11b...
Rock Climbing Photo: Eli about to top out
Eli about to top out
Rock Climbing Photo: Eli finishing up the first bulge crux...  Note: th...
Eli finishing up the first bulge crux... Note: th...
Rock Climbing Photo: The midway rest ledge, Anyone who knows this route...
The midway rest ledge, Anyone who knows this route...
Rock Climbing Photo: Eli Buzzel on his send
Eli Buzzel on his send

Comments on Weevil Knevil Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Mar 25, 2009

It's also fun to start on Barking Spiders and then head right to finish on Weevil. This avoids Weevil's bulge crux but allows you to do the upper headwall.
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Mar 26, 2009

oh! oh! oh! could we call it the barking weevil :)
By anna.gutwin
From: Burlington, VT
Jul 20, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

On the lower crux a left hand undercling helped gain the good right hold without needing to use the crappy crimp/pinch. I'm 5'6" and it was a doable reach for me.
By S. Neoh
Jul 20, 2014

Agreed. I am 5'5" and I make the reach readily with the left hand undercling and a high right foot. The end is the business IMHO.
By Ian Grant
From: Cambridge
May 1, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Fun! These folks with the undercling beta are wizards, I think. The low boulder felt like the crux for me. Found a semi-solid heel-toe cam that helped with the right hand reach to the crimp. V4 to no-hands to 5.11c. Top it out!
By Eli
From: Utarizona
Oct 5, 2015

Top out to the left of the anchors.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 11, 2016

after teaching my clinics at the Rumney Rendezvous this past Saturday I grabbed a quick run on Weevil Knevil... good times!

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