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This is another little trad line on the right side of Lost Angel. Weird name...till you go when it's too warm. It's submitted due to a clarification effort on this area.
Follow a right-facing dihedral to the right of Disneyland past a couple steeper bits. You can belay at 90 ft. Continue up to the point where you can go right (easier) or left (steeper) crux with good jams. Best to face right. A bit scratchy. On the lighter side of a star. 0.83 stars.
Right of Disneyland, on the right side of Lost Angel, just down from Wake Up Wall.
Aliens, wires, Camalots #1-4.
By Richard Rossiter
May 7, 2007
Regarding the name of the route: I led this route on-sight with Colleen Greene on a very warm mid-summer day. Above the final hard parts we came upon two young men, on what they must have thought was a secluded ledge. They were completely naked and I would rather not commit to print what they were doing with their hard parts (weenies).
As some of you will recall, Upper Dream Canyon was a well-known nude hot spot for the gay community...until Bob Horan and I bolted the shit out of the place and publicized the really excellent first routes in 1996. So the gay guys have largely surrendered their turf and the climbers have taken over...something like the rise and fall of the Roman Empire...perhaps a bad analogy.