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Weapons of Mass Deception 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: J.J., Jared Hancock
Page Views: 783
Submitted By: TomCaldwell on Oct 7, 2010

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Starting up Weapons of Mass Deception

Description 

Begin in a dihedral to the left of the main Great Wall climbing area. On the right side wall is a finger crack leading to a roof. Start up the dirty dihedral to get to the finger crack. Follow the crack to the roof (crux) and traverse left and up to reach the left facing flake. Follow the left facing flake to a small roof with a hand crack. Move onto the face and up the short hand crack to the anchor.

This route does not see much traffic and is often dirty and covered with large spiders.

Location 

At the left side of the Great Wall. Make a left when the trail meets the wall. Look for the dihedral with finger crack in it. Rap with a single 60m rope.

Protection 

TCU's to #3 C4 camalot, nuts and tricams wouldn't hurt. A few shoulder slings for the traverse. Fixed cam in the flake section. Rap anchors at the top.


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By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Oct 7, 2010

The new guidebook downgraded the stars from four to two for good reason.
By highneed
Sep 7, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Take a spider wand in the summer. Took a leg shredding whipper swatting at a monster wolf spider. Also the climb is just dirty and absorbs humidity.
By Rebecca Li
From: Providence, RI
5 days ago

Despite the foliage on the first half, the route itself looks super fun from the ground. However, the spiders under the roof are serious business. Don't get bitten by one of those!

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