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Weakened Warrior aka Super Arete 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Trevor Bowman 6/16/15
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 342
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Jun 21, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: The route, with the upper arete a bit foreshortene...

Description 

This takes the stunning, overhung, sharply cleaved arete that forms the right side of the upper corner on Super Dihedral. It was bolted in 2010, worked a good bit with a couple heartbreaking near-sends and a fall from one move below the anchor. It was shelved the next season due to a blown finger tendon, and again in 2013 due to shoulder injury. I've been away from the area for much of the time since 2011, but it had always been in the back of my mind. The other local developers and climbers had generously left it be; my sincere thanks guys for letting me wrap it up, even if it took so long!

The lower 1/2 of the climb snakes its way up the face, crossing and joining Super Dihedral. It's admittedly kind of contrived, but the intention was to keep it from infringing on Super Dihedral too much while allowing a sport start to the upper arete. This is the entry fee for the spectacular arete, although the lower face does offer pretty good climbing.

Start up a steep slab, with technical tick-tacking (5.11a/b) up varied features. Stay with the bolts to find the best holds, and bounce left at the 4th bolt and pull onto the shelf. The rock is a touch dirty and friable on the slab, but the good holds are generally clean. From the shelf, crimp up good edges on the face, clipping two bolts, before moving back right into Super Dihedral just below its diagonal layback crux. Two more bolts protect this excellent stretch of laybacking, but clip them with shouldera-length draws or the rope-drag will get bad. At a large flat edge, regroup before commiting to the upper arete. The arete itself is a fantastic stretch of climbing, with lots of positive, square-cut slaps and pinches for the left and crimps/edges for the right. It's sustained and pumpy, without ever being too hard until the crux finale. This sting-in-the tail requires a sequential boulder problem on smaller features that can be taxing with the cumulative pump. What's more, the final bolt will probably be unclippable (I placed it for working, but never could figure a way to efficiently clip it on burns); simply gun it to the anchors from the 2nd to last bolt. This makes for some awesome airtime if you waffle it, and adds excitement to the crux for sure!

Location 

Immediately right of Super Dihedral.

Protection 

14 bolts to clip-and-lowers (one is currently just a shut, but will hopefully be swapped sometime soon).


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