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Weak Nuts 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Joe Cote & Larry Boehmler 1973
Page Views: 164
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Jul 12, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Tim G follows the "Weak Nuts" crack


The crack/groove on the far right of the Main Slab. The lower part of the crack crack leads to two 3/8" s.s. bolts and the upper crack (gear) and a tree ledge. Rap with 2 ropes.
The F.A. was 1973...The 5.6 rating is pretty "Old School". My notes from 2007 say "This is a pretty serious climb!...(if you don't have the gear)"

There were no cams for the (mostly) slightly flaring crack in 1973 !

Looks like the climb's been brushed recently (2015), Thanks Chris!


Take TWO # 2 (gold) Camalots, TWO #1 (Red) and TWO # 3's (Blue) unless you can cruse 5.6+ cracks.

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By Bob A
Aug 23, 2014

High quality climb that could use a little cleaning.
That would make it one of the best climbs at Lost.
You may want to bring two number 1's (red) also in addition to two number 2,s.
By Chris Graham
From: Bartlett, NH
Aug 27, 2014

Right there with Bob A. A little scrubbing and some doubles in the sizes mentioned above as well as a #3 would really make this route a worthwhile outing. Some fun moves mixed in with a little spice will keep your attention from the moment you leave the ground. Very fun route!
By MattD1881
From: Woodstock, CT
Jun 23, 2017

super wet and funky in the crack, especially in the upper section...feels like it adds a solid grade
By Robert Hall
From: North Conway, NH
Jun 24, 2017

a.."Yup"....note the comment about "old school rating" Even dry it sometimes feels more than 5.6 !

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