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We Were Jumpers Once and Young 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Mike Tupper
New Route: Yes
Season: warm
Page Views: 150
Submitted By: Aaron Miller on Aug 3, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Fred Berman sending the crux We Were Jumpers Once ...

Description 

Will most likely be done in two pitches.

The first pitch is 12c power through a bulge to enduro face above leads to first set of anchors. 65 feet.

Second pitch (5.11c) follows up sustained face climbing through a very aesthetic headwall finish through a thin seam. Bring a small selection of wires and single cams from finger to tight hands to finish out. The "fixed" Leeper-Z fell out on an attempt in 2015 but it should still take gear just fine. 110' foot pitch if done as a single push from the ground.

Location 

First route from left on the Renegade overhangs wall, start in a corner/seam through blocky terrain to a right-facing horn. Get your self together now cause here's the business.

Protection 

First pitch has 6 bolts and one fixed draw.

14 bolts if done in one long pitch (use a 70m rope)

wires and set of cams from fingers to tight hands


Comments on We Were Jumpers Once and Young Add Comment
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By Doug Hearon
From: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Oct 21, 2013

Just a heads up, it says that it is 12 pitches and 130 feet. Surely a typo!
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 21, 2013

Corrected
By Ian Donnelly
From: Santa Fe, NM
Oct 14, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

How hard is the second pitch?
By Aaron Miller
From: Santa Fe, NM
Oct 15, 2014

Its only 11c past the first set of anchors, stay left in the crack (gear needed), can be done with a single 70m in one pitch.
By Shirtless Mike
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Aug 24, 2015

The direct finish goes at around 5.12. From the stance where the thin crack breaks out left to the anchors of Endurance (mentioned above as Jumpers to Endurance) continue up to a fixed cable (no biner) and a stance. Either bust straight up probably 5.13 or traverse right across the ledge to a good rest. Climb up the arete, clip the last bolt and make hard (5.12 ish) somewhat committing moves to the anchors.

With some cleaning, and perhaps some bolt re-location the direct finish could be a pretty good line. It might clean up to avoid the rightwards traverse and turn out really good.

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