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We Be Joes 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rober Price, Steve Lowry
Page Views: 223
Submitted By: Superclimber on Jan 24, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Looking down at the exit from the cave.

Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset MORE INFO >>>

Description 

I think at one time this route may have been called Mud Slide. Not sure where I heard or read that. Nevertheless, the guide books refer to it as We Be Joes.

This climb consists of two parallel cracks that ascend the vertical wall of a large obscure cave. The left crack fizzles out before the top. The right crack starts out hands and becomes fingers near the top. The rock quality is generally pretty good, but it tops out into a semi-rotten trough that is pretty much always filled with debris. About 4 years prior to this writing I cleaned out the crack which was quite packed with mud and debris. As of about a year and a half ago it was still clean. Honestly, this is a pretty good crack and worth doing.

Please don't be tempted to sling the large egg shaped boulder that is balancing on the edge of the trough above We Be Joes and use it as an anchor. I absolutely would not trust it to stay put. There is another larger boulder behind the spooky one.

Location 

To find this route. Take the Lost Wall/Center Wall Trail to the large triangular Lost Wall boulder near the main dome. Look down into the caves a short distance from the climber's right side of Lost Wall. You're looking for a large room with parallel cracks going up the wall. You can't access the cave from here, but at least you will know where the cave is located. Then, you can follow the Main Dome toward Strawberry Jam and Texas Flakes. The top out from We Be Joes is very close to the bottom of Strawberry Jam and Texas Direct. From below Texas Direct (the slab below the Texas Flakes anchors)wander down into the caves and boulders to seek out the entrance into the cave. That's about the most specific I can get. Once you spot the cave from near Lost Wall, you shouldn't have too much trouble sniffing out the entrance.

Protection 

A single rack with cams from small to BD#2. A head lamp is helpful, but it can be done without one.


Photos of We Be Joes Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: We be Joes. It's darker in the cave than it appear...
BETA PHOTO: We be Joes. It's darker in the cave than it appear...

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By Tommy G.
From: Killeen, Texas
Jan 18, 2016

Deserves and extra star vs. the 1-star rating in the O'Grady guidebook IMO, due to the crack quality and epic location. Stellar jamming in the right crack with interesting help from the left. Top was super dirty (leaves & dirt) for me and will likely be the same when you climb it too. Do it!

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