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Wayback Cliff

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El Nino Presents T 
Trillium T 

Wayback Cliff  Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 2,310'
Location: 44.51817, -73.81084 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 391
Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Mark Bealor Saranac Lake NY on May 25, 2016
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Buttress above and right of Mr. Peabody slab. Tril...

Description 

This wide and complex cliff sits above the Summit/Tsunami/Midway/Outback cliffs.
It stretches from the right hand end of the Summit Cliff to the left end of the Outback Slab. A lot of rock, but not much eye catching, other than the obvious clean black buttress (and the route Trillium) above and right of the clean Mr. Peabody slab.
The layout of the cliff is similar to Center of Progress-a higher left and center section, with a lesser right hand end. Like COP, there is a steep slope between the two sections.
The summit of Wayback has many open sections (similar to Summit Cliff) with excellent views. In fact, a great short hike is to go up the Wayback “gully” to the top, and then hike along the mostly open cliff top, staying close to the edge. At the climbers left end, go down to the bottom easily, and cut through the woods to the top of Summit Cliff. Hike along the open top of Summit Cliff, and go down the Silver Lake Chimney.
Great views, mostly open, rivals the Jay Ridge-minus all the other people.

Getting There 

The approach is described in ADK Rock as "long and complex". With the development of a better option than the three mentioned in the guide, this is no longer the case.
Park at the Turnpike Road trailhead. At the first logging header you get a great view of Wayback-notice the obvious black buttress and the line of Trillium.
Hike the good road past the header for a few minutes. When the road turns sharply left (good view of Potter from here), head straight into an old clearing. Walk across the clearing, and pick up an old logging road (cairn on stump). Head downhill on this road through some hemlocks, and come to recent beaver activity in a few minutes. Stay left of the pond/lodge.Step across a small brook and soon enter the zone of last winter’s logging. Walk right on an open and wide corduroy road for a few hundred yards. Go uphill on one of several skidder paths to the left side of the Jutting Block Wall. Go up a steep slope on the left side of the wall (way better than around the right side). This steep section leads to the far left side of Outback Slab (total approach to Outback 40 minutes with heavy packs).
Now go up and left staying close to the Outback slab as it basically disappears. Continue uphill, staying close to the top of the Midway Cliff for another 5 minutes or so. When you reach the first van-sized boulders, go right, and straight uphill to El Nino Presents (55 minutes).
To reach Trillium angle up and left (1 hour).

Climbing Season

For the Silver Lake area.

Weather station 13.4 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Wayback Cliff
Rock Climbing Photo: P2, climber just starting up shallow corner.

Trillium 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  New York : Adirondacks : ... : Wayback Cliff
Pitch two has great climbing and position on the proud and obvious black buttress that sits above and right of the “Mr. Peabody” slab. Parts of Trillium pitch one undoubtedly follow the second pitch of Mr. Peabody (pg. 470 ADK Rock girl book). This slab is one of the most attractive features on Wayback Cliff, and it is obvious why Tad Welch and Bill Widrig chose to climb it, with scant protection, in 1981. Welch remembers placing a RURP low on the slab, less for protection than because “I ...[more]   Browse More Classics in New York

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