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Wizard Rock
Routes Sorted
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Christal Ball S 
Crack T 
Driven Like the Snow T 
Magic Wand S 
Right Arete T 
Ruff T,TR 
Snow Crash S 
Two in the Bush T,TR 
Uncertain Fates T 
Wave Yer Wand T 
Way of the Wizard S 
Wide Jadodat T 
Wizard Shuffle T,TR 

Way of the Wizard 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Christine Damiano, 2001
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,027
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jul 9, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: Wizard Rock. The four bolted sport routes are sho...

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  • Description 

    Go up a gully on the right side of Wizard Rock to a short steep corner with a black streak leading to a lower-angle slab. The route starts in this corner, near a tree stump.

    Stem the corner past two bolts and step left (crux) onto the slab. Fun slab climbing (5.7 to 5.8) leads to the anchors.

    Protection 

    8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The route is 70' long.


    Photos of Way of the Wizard Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: On the slab above the crux.
    On the slab above the crux.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down at the slab from the anchor.
    Looking down at the slab from the anchor.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Christa Cline moving up the slab.  The anchor is v...
    Christa Cline moving up the slab. The anchor is v...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Christa Cline at the crux move left by the second ...
    Christa Cline at the crux move left by the second ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jen Yuen stemming the start of Way of the Wizard.
    Jen Yuen stemming the start of Way of the Wizard.

    Comments on Way of the Wizard Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By shad O'Neel
    Aug 10, 2004
    rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Nice climbing, very similar to the route on Avalon, Incline Club. This felt fairly easy for for 5.9 though, I thought maybe one 5.8 move.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Jul 9, 2013
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    This certainly is not 5.9. It has a 5.8 move but, only one.

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