REI Community
The Noir Boulder
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A.C.L. 
Crack Problem, The 
Not Without Hope  
Shake Junt 
Stone Cold Stunner 
Warmup , The 
Way of the Samurai 

Way of the Samurai 

Hueco: V9-10 Font: 7C+

   
Type:  Boulder, 40'
Original:  Hueco: V9-10 Font: 7C+ [details]
FA: Jondo
New Route: Yes
Season: Mostly shady, great in Summer
Page Views: 650
Submitted By: andy patterson on Jun 8, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Throw.

Description 

An odyssey of burl. Start with both hands matched on the massive undercling lip thingy, then traverse right through awesome pockets, crazy footwork, myriad dynamic moves, and finally finish on Shake Junt, via the heinous move to a jug (NOT the easy left-exit).

A good workout, by the way.

Anyone who has climbed with me knows how partial I am to traverses. So yes, I'm biased. But I promise: this rig is exceptionally fun, sustained, and gymnastic.

Location 

Begins at left end of boulder, on huge lip/undercling.

Protection 

Get good paddage for the last moves. Double pads is a good idea. The last move is literally the crux. Expect the heartbreak...


Photos of Way of the Samurai Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing on Shake Junt.
Finishing on Shake Junt.
Rock Climbing Photo: Setting up for big move to pocket.
Setting up for big move to pocket.
Rock Climbing Photo: Opening moves through cool huecos.
Opening moves through cool huecos.

Comments on Way of the Samurai Add Comment
Show which comments
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
Jun 8, 2014

it's a 40' long traverse.
By Marathon
Jun 13, 2014

Nice find! Looks fun/hard!
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
May 12, 2016

Finally, some historical info on this great problem! When I finished this traverse, I thought I was the first-ascentionist. I was wrong—Jondo beat me to it. Figures. Dude cranked(s). Thanks for the vid, Garratt Wilkin (see Noir Boulder intro page: mountainproject.com/v/the-noir.... Jondo rated it V10. I'm amenable to that rating, as well as the V9+ rating. It's friggin hard either way.

I named the problem Dances With Wolves (a.k.a. The Kevin Costner Challenge), but I will gladly defer to Jondo's name.
By Pablo Hammack
Aug 28, 2016
rating: V9 7C

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About