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Way of the Ancients 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a R

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 500'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a R [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,716
Submitted By: Guy H. on Nov 29, 2009

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  • Description 

    The Way of the Ancients is a great route to round out your day on the First's East face. The climbing has large runouts (up to 50 feet), but the positon on the final arete and the rock is great.

    Start on the upper left flank of the east face. The first faint trail from the summit will lead you to the base.

    P1: Follow Hubris for ~215 feet to a updated bolt anchor. This section follows a vague, left-facing, dihedral system to the bolt anchor about 40 feet left of a large pine tree. There is great runout slab climbing on this pitch if you stray away from the dihedral.

    P2/3: From the bolt anchor, angle left to the summit block. Pass a small overhang on the left and enjoy the beautiful position up the blunt prow to the summit. If you are climbing with a rope, you better belay before the summit block. The upper prow has no bomber gear on it.


    Way of the Ancients shares the first half of Hubris on the far left side of the east face.


    Light rack.

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