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Way Nutter 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ben F and Micah Dash
Page Views: 7,251
Submitted By: Joe Santambrogio on Oct 1, 2004

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


The offwidth about 20 feet left of Blue Sun, starts as hands and gets rapidly wider...but there are plenty of small ledges for rests after most moves.

Great shady climb in the am,


Camalots #4, 4.5, and 5 all very usefull

Photos of Way Nutter Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Spring 2012
Spring 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Joe Santambrogio
Joe Santambrogio
Rock Climbing Photo: Brett demonstrating how it's done.
Brett demonstrating how it's done.
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading Way Nutter. Photo taken by Brian Weinstein...
Leading Way Nutter. Photo taken by Brian Weinstein...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 23, 2015
By Anonymous Coward
Feb 24, 2005

FA: the Nutter, Nov. 2001. FA nicknamed by Heavy Duty for driving from Denver to the Creek almost every weekend the previous spring.
By Andrew Klein
Mar 15, 2005

I climbed up to the base of the offwidth and it looking painful and all, I led out right to climb a nice little finger crack to a block (which appears to be loose, but is actually quite stable) to a loose ledge and back left to the anchors (this is another option if you don't have a lot of big gear to lead the crack-which isn't that bad using the ledge/face holds on the left). Cheers, AK!
By Stefanie Van Wychen
From: Denver, CO
Mar 21, 2005

If you skip the offwidth of this climb, you've skipped the best part. It might look hard, but if you get up in it with your right side, there are some easy mantelling moves on the left wall.
By Danny Inman
From: Arvada
Mar 24, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This route is a great warm up. The hand crack at the bottom is great and the off-with section is really fun. There are plenty of rests from which one can easily place protection. I liked this one better than Rochambeau. Also, be careful at the top near the anchors, there is some loose rock up there that I nearly knocked down.
By coreylee
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 17, 2008

#6 Camalot was real useful at the top.
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Nov 17, 2008

Fun route! I agree that a #6 Camalot is really nice to have.
By Sara Ann
From: Sunnyvale, CA
Apr 6, 2011

You want one if not TWO number 6s at the top. I levitated one for a while, and then wished I had another. Crack's too wide for a five up there.
By slim
Apr 7, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

i wish i could levitate items. then i could just leave half the rack on the ground and levitate it up to me when i need it. maybe a sandwich too, while i was at it.
By Jordon Schaefer
Oct 29, 2012

I climbed this on a 4, 5 and 6 (all C4) and didn't feel like I was running it out at all. Just bump your cams, standard offwidth technique. The top was the best part.
By The Blueprint Part Dank
From: FEMA Region VIII
Dec 1, 2013

Such an awesome little route. Unusual for the Creek, this route has a few really nice hand and footholds to break up the crack climbing. I can't recommend this enough as an intro to OW climbing. I took 1 #3, 1 #4, 2 #5's and 1 #6 and placed them all. The second #5 is nice for the last moves, but not necessary.

I scratched out a small plaque with the route name and difficulty ("Way Nutter 5.9") and put it at the base so more folks will notice and climb this awesome line. I made the plaque small and somewhat inconspicuous though, many apologies to the First Ascentionist if this plaque is unwanted.
By Mark van Eijk
Mar 23, 2015

Not to be missed if you're in the area. Short and ridiculously fun warm-up and great intro to wide climbing. Do two wide moves, take a rest on a ledge, repeat. Bring a 5 and a 6 for big stuff and be prepared to slide the latter up with you.

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