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Way Layed 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,212
Submitted By: Joe Collins on Sep 6, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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BETA PHOTO: 1st pitch

June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Another beautiful stemming pitch. 2 stars at the Tower, 3 stars anywhere else.

This pitch climbs the right side of the pillar directly below the fist crack pitch of Tugley Wood. It is the crack directly left of the 5.9+ first pitch of McCarthy West Face. It's a long pitch, but what else is new at Devil's Tower?

Set a high belay, and stem the thin corner. There are many difficult sections on this pitch with good stances from time to time. The guidebook calls the small roof at mid-height the crux, but it really isn't much more difficult than the rest of the climb. The crack eventually widens to hands... another good rest follows before some more cruxy business exiting the corner.

A double 60m rope rappel will, just barely, deposit you at the staging area at the start to El Matador.


Lots of small-medium stoppers. Triples in BD stopper sizes #3-7 would have been perfect. Due to the nature of the crack, it doesn't take cams well. I think I placed two cams on the pitch: a green camalot at the crux and a hand sized piece in the hands section near the top of the route.

Photos of Way Layed Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Taken June, 2000
BETA PHOTO: Taken June, 2000
Rock Climbing Photo: Sundance climber is fishing in the final RP on Way...
Sundance climber is fishing in the final RP on Way...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sundance climber trying to unlock the final face s...
Sundance climber trying to unlock the final face s...
Rock Climbing Photo: John Groth
John Groth

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By Joe Collins
Sep 9, 2003

I got the grade and name spelling above from the Poorperson's guide. The guide with the green cover grades the route 11b and gives the name as "Way Laid", the correct way to spell it (imagine that!). Felt like pretty easy 5.11 to me, so 11a is more like it.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 28, 2006

Eric Rhicard did the FA of this route in 1981 with Mark Smedley after he fell at the crux and removed a lot of skin from his shin. The original EB climbing shoe rubber was not as sticky as the new stuff.
By John Gunnels
From: Gillette, WY
Apr 8, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Did this route my second year at the Tower. Interesting note: for the first half of the pitch, I thought I was on Tulgey Wood! Oops...
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
May 27, 2008

The last few moves of this climb are awesome and just a little exciting!
By Jordan Collins 1
Sep 5, 2016

An awesome line!!!! in an incredibly popular area. Thin gear throughout with excellent protection with fairly large fall potential at both cruxes. A worthwhile route in the 11- range with a cool move to step across left onto the mystery express/tulgey wood column.

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