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Way Cool Junior 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 1985 by Mike Nona and Brad Edwards
Page Views: 132
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Jul 17, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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Peter Arndt on "Way Cool Junior".

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Way Cool Junior is the route furthest left on this formation. It is probably only 5.6 or maybe even 5.5 - but makes an excellent first lead(it was mine).

Climb up the leftmost line of bolts. You could conceivably hit the ground before clipping bolt 2, but as a first lead this was very comfortable so I wouldn't worry about it. Decent easy route, but there are better at Rushmore.



Photos of Way Cool Junior Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on Way Cool Junior, my 2nd outdoor lead
Me on Way Cool Junior, my 2nd outdoor lead
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking at Way Cool from Old Number 8
Looking at Way Cool from Old Number 8

Comments on Way Cool Junior Add Comment
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By Bob Archbold
Aug 7, 2002

A person did hit the ground prior to reaching the second bolt and gotten seriously injured. This was a beginning leader. New bolts were added to protect these beginning leaders
By Bob Archbold
Aug 15, 2002

The first ascent of this route was done in 1985 by Mike Nona and Brad Edwards
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 28, 2003

Just led Way Cool Jr. on 6/15/03. Somebody chopped the 2nd bolt or 3rd bolt. I'm not sure which one it was, I just know until I clipped the next bolt it would have been a long ride to ground.
By Will Buckman
From: Devils Tower
Mar 22, 2004

As of 3/22/03, the second bolt on this route is missing. Beware potential ground-fall before clipping 3rd bolt.
By Eric Fischer
Jun 17, 2006

I was at this climb a couple of days ago. a guy came walking by and mentioned that he was the F.A. of way cool junior. i asked him if he knew anything about bolts getting chopped on it and he replied that who ever added the bolts did not get his approval so he took them out. hopefully this can clear up what happened to the missing bolts.
By steve richert
From: Taunton MA
Jul 18, 2008

I dont see the point in having a bolt at eye-level (when standing on the ground) and then a 18 foot run-out to the next bolt. Its illogical as well as unsafe.
By Mark Orsag
From: Omaha, NE
May 2, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

The bizarre bolting creates a contrived element of danger and detracts from what would otherwise be quite a nice little route. Some of the holds in the runout also seemed to be a bit flexible-- scary!

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