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Way Beyond Zebra S,TR 

Way Beyond Zebra 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, TR, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Cam Burns, Steve Provonost, Mike Makely
Season: year round
Page Views: 1,857
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Anna crimping through the crux on her first 5.11 l...


An awesome, steep face route. It is, dare I say, overbolted, making for a safe sport lead and great first 5.11 sport lead for the aspirant. Crux seems to be near the last bolt at the steepening terrain. The last bolt is often skipped by leaders not wanting to pump-out trying to clip it.
The route has two anchors--one set accessed from the top for TRing and one set lower for leading.


This is the long face around the corner right of Dave's Face and left of Polly's Crack. Shown as route number 15 on the Overlook route topo photo.


8 bolts to chain anchors.

Photos of Way Beyond Zebra Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nat enjoying an unseasonably warm December morning...
Nat enjoying an unseasonably warm December morning...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason starting the committing crux at the end of t...
Jason starting the committing crux at the end of t...

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By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Apr 4, 2007

sweet route, and definitely tightly bolted making for a safe lead. high crux. I was looking to depump, shimmied right, and stemmed to the right wall. I am told this is cheating, I thought it was smart climbing! way cool.
By Dave Wachter
Mar 4, 2008

Safe lead? There's a difference between safe lead and overbolted. If you're not getting into the 5.11 grade 'cause you're scared of leader falls, this is your route, baby. Climbs well. Last bolt entirely unnecessary.
By Daniel Trugman
From: La Jolla, CA
Dec 21, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This was my first 5.11 lead and even I was a starting to get annoyed with how many bolts I had to clip (I didn't feel bold enough to skip bolts though). Last bolt is definitely more trouble than its worth if you're going for the RP (I wasn't, so I clipped it). Still, this climb shouldn't be maligned merely for the spacing of its bolts; it's a great climb.
By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Dec 4, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

If you continue to the 2nd anchor, you get a few more interesting moves, the guidebook says doing so is the difference between 11a and 11b. The rope drag when TRing/lowering off the high anchor is annoying though. My assumption is that the lower anchor was added after the climb was initially bolted to alleviate this, which resulted in the last bolt being quite close to the (lower) anchor.

I'd agree that stemming or using the crack to the right would make it less than 5.11.
By Naomi Galinski
Oct 28, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I was surprised by the amount of bolts as well. This was my last climb of the day after leading a bunch of hard things so maybe my rating of 11b is biased with tiredness. I skipped the last bolt since I had no energy left to clip something that is so close to the top anyway.

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