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Left Infirmary Slab
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Wax 'n Wane 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 101
Submitted By: ClimbandMine on Jul 15, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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P3 (the money pitch) of Wax 'n Wane. Perfect handc...

Description 

This shoots up the slab, sort of right of middle, to the obvious crack on the face above. The crux is the slab moves. A yellow TCU protects it. The crack is beautiful till you've pulled the bulge to the low-angle crap and a belay above. The long second pitch is just easy slab and stemming to a tree. Scramble off right.

Protection 

Standard rack to #3.5 Camalot.


Photos of Wax 'n Wane Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The start.  You can see the rusty relic you are ai...
The start. You can see the rusty relic you are ai...
Rock Climbing Photo: Eddie following P1 of Wax 'n Wane (5.7R). West Inf...
Eddie following P1 of Wax 'n Wane (5.7R). West Inf...

Comments on Wax 'n Wane Add Comment
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By Eric Klammer
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 2, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

Started with the crack variation to the right of the standard start to avoid the 5.8R section to an old bolt. We rated our variation and the route overall at about 5.6 PG-13. 2 stars for the rock and movement, 3 stars for position and fun! Great little adventure route with a fun mix of slab and crack. If you're a solid 5.7 leader, don't let the 5.4R/X section scare you off, it's a quick scramble on clean rock. After topping out, there is no good descent for this route. We opted to head west to the gully, and while it was relatively easy hiking, it was both loose and brushy.

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