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Routes in North Face
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Dancing Feet T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Deception T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Deception Direct T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Harvey's Wallbangers Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Harvey's Wallbangers, Center T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Harvey's Wallbangers, Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Knapsack Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Manic Depressive Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Reds Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Spam Sandwich T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Wave Rider T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,198 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Josh C on Aug 31, 2011 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Details
ATTN CLIMBERS: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
Low angle dike climbing with a little friction thrown in for good measure. The direct start begins directly below a thin right flacing flake. The crux is one unprotected friction move to reach the flake. Plug in some small pro, then climb runout, but easy, dikes to the anchor. You can place medium cams in a hidden pod to the right of the dikes.
The original start is farther right at a pine. Head up a crack then traverse left to an old bolt. Continue moving left and up until you can reach the flake mentioned above. The climbing above becomes easier as more dikes appear. Belay at the bolted anchor about 20 or 30 feet right of "Manic Depressive's" crack.
You have two options for the second pitch. Traverse left on dikes and finish "Manic Depressive." Or (more fun) climb up and right across smooth friction to reach a rectangular block. Above this block, follow the finger crack through the small overlaps until upward progress is blocked by a roof. Make an easy traverse left to join "Manic Depressive." The second pitch does not have an "R" rating.
The original start is farther right at a pine. Head up a crack then traverse left to an old bolt. Continue moving left and up until you can reach the flake mentioned above. The climbing above becomes easier as more dikes appear. Belay at the bolted anchor about 20 or 30 feet right of "Manic Depressive's" crack.
You have two options for the second pitch. Traverse left on dikes and finish "Manic Depressive." Or (more fun) climb up and right across smooth friction to reach a rectangular block. Above this block, follow the finger crack through the small overlaps until upward progress is blocked by a roof. Make an easy traverse left to join "Manic Depressive." The second pitch does not have an "R" rating.
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