Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Wavebreak Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Jagged Edge T 
Wave Break T 

Wave Break 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: Stuart and Bret Ruckman
Page Views: 21
Submitted By: Ryan Brough on Nov 19, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Wave Break. 5.11a crux where the variations begin...

Description 

Surf up jugs in and around a winding crack to a good rest midway up the route. Choose between the left variation that climbs past a bolt through a reachier face or follow the flake system to the right. Either way, a short and sweet crux awaits as the routes diverge. An additional crux rewards those choosing the bolted line, which protects a continuance of the jug haul from the start. Delightful!

Location 

A winding crack slithers up the overhanging east face of the Wavebreak Wall, just a few feet from the Jagged Edge arete. Rappel from the top or walk off/downclimb very carefully to the north.

Protection 

Standard rack. RPs or brass essential, one quickdraw for the bolt. The anchors can be shared with Jagged Edge (5.8). One is a rusty old buttonhead. The webbing was pretty old, so we added to it. I have doubts about the R rating from the Ruckman guide, but I have yet to lead it, so I can't disagree. It looks like it would sew up easily enough, but the pump factor would greatly increase due to the overhanging nature of the route.


Comments on Wave Break Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nathan Fisher
May 11, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Another good route that could be better without the stretch of loose rock. Some very fun moves near the bolt and the finish is great. This anchor could use a replacement. I also believe that this route could sew up. The Straight up variation seemed contrived. Maybe just a way to clip a bolt to feel safer.
By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
May 3, 2008

I didn't think there was any loose rock on this. I do agree that the going straight up through the bolt seems contrived. Fun