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Watts Towers

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Adult Books T 
Bandersnatch T 
Infectious Smile T 
Jemimagina T 
Sole Food T 
Talus Phallus T 
Urban Redevelopment T 
Watt Me Worry? T 

Watts Towers Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Salamanizer suchoski, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tony B on Jan 16, 2006
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Description 

The climbing at Watts towers is mostly good. The routes range from 50 to 100 feet on light orange granite with some hard brown scale and some softer white areas. The crag faces southwest and gets mid-day sun until the evening sunset in the winter. There are few bolts at this crag, so bring your rack to lead and anchor the belays. The walk off is reasonable and brief, but does involve boulder-hopping.

The better rated lines here are all 5.10's and up, being Jemimagina (5.10b), Sole Food (5.10a) and Adult Books (5.11a). We found Urban Redevelopment (5.8) to also be a fun line, and Bandersnatch (5.10b) was good despite it's difficulty for protection and a few questionable holds.

Getting There 

From the main highway pullout (used for Pep Boys Crag and the Milepost) park and look southeast across the road. A few broken looking domes and towers show in layers, to the right of the huge clean domes on The Cohn Property (private property & no climbing)

The one with the orange tint on the higher wall capped with obvious cracks and dihedrals is the Watts Towers. Although this crag looks difficult to access, it is not far away and is worth the walk in.

To approach, strike out from the car aiming for the far right end of that cliff band. Head up to a flat "pass" between the Towers and X-factor Dome (to it's right) and start boulder hopping up a brief gully. This will turn left and ascend a jumble of large stones and boulders (pretty stable) to reach the flat base below the Watts Towers climbs. The best area to unpack and get out the book is at the flat rock on the left (northern-most) end, which is below the route Sole Food.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.1 miles from here

8 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',4],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Watts Towers
Rock Climbing Photo: Sole Food

Sole Food 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  California : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Watts Towers
This is a great route on the left edge of the Watts Towers main buttress. Spot a stopper crack leading up the left side of the wall perhaps 8 meters to a hand-sized opening 1 meter long. Climb up this crack placing solid gear to the hand crack and beyond, to where the crack ends. You can get a piece in about every meter if you brought a set of stoppers and cams. Place the one small nut or RP at the top of the crack and head 2 meter up and right on face moves (5.9) to reach a second line, which a...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Watts Towers Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The north end of Watts Towers, Joshua Tree NP
The north end of Watts Towers, Joshua Tree NP
Rock Climbing Photo: The sunset seen walking out from Watts Towers, 12/...
The sunset seen walking out from Watts Towers, 12/...
Rock Climbing Photo: Early morning view from the base of Watts Towers.
Early morning view from the base of Watts Towers.
Rock Climbing Photo: Watts Towers. Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: Watts Towers. Photo by Blitzo.

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