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Physical Crag
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Watts Left Over T 

Watts Left Over 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tony Bubb & Alec Sharp, 10/3/04
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 337
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 3, 2004

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  • Description 

    The name of this route was in keeping with the other Route names and chosen because it was 'watt' was 'left over' just 'over left' of the routes done 2 decades ago by Sharp & Fitch.

    On the left-most side of the left hand section of Physical crag there is a moderate slabby face that ascends on some intermittent cracks and right-facing corner reach a more vertical wall with a left-facing corner. The crux of the route comes near the upper third of its length, in a short section with a quality finger crack with great locks, just to the left of the dirty seam in the corner itself.

    Climb this system to the top, being careful not to drop rocks on your second. This is the only moderate line and probably the best warm-up on the cliff.

    This route could have been climbed before, as it is moderate and somewhat obvious. Still, no mention or memory of it in Rossiter's book or from Sharp indicates prior passage. Its clandestine location and somewhat un-cleaned state left possible the potential that this was an un-climbed moderate.

    The route is measured at 125' as opposed to the 60' listed in the Levin book.

    You can walk off to the East or West via some ledge systems to a scramble down.

    Protection 

    A standard light rack with finger-sized pro for the crux section.


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