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WM: Waterville Valley

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WM: Waterville Valley Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 2,003'
Location: 43.918, -71.5852 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 49,715
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 26, 2011

59° | 38°

66° | 43°

68° | 48°

66° | 56°

64° | 56°

61° | 46°
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Shari leading the crack


Waterville Valley could rightfully be considered a climbing backwater. Most climbers are content to stare at the impressive Dickey Ledge, high on Dickey Mountain, and clearly visible from Interstate 93. Few, however, make the commitment to hike up there and climb on it. It makes sense that Waterville Valley receives so little attention from climbers, given that Cannon Cliff is just up the road, Rumney is fifteen minutes to the west, and North Conway is just an hour away.

Those who commit to hike the mile up to Dickey Ledge are rewarded with absolutely perfect granite and amazing mountain views. Dickey Ledge feels like a little piece of Joshua Tree that has been transplanted to the White Mountains. The slabs are long and exposed, and the cracks are short, steep, and vicious.

While Dickey Ledge receives probably 90% of the climbing traffic, others are content to scour the hills and mountains for more rock. There's a lot of rock out there: some of it is good, some of it is terrible, and some of it is completely inaccessible. But people keep looking, hoping to stumble upon the next Main Cliff, but more likely finding solitude, beautiful mountain views, and a profound respect for the uniqueness of the Waterville Valley area.

Getting There 

Most of the climbing is accessed from Highway 49, which is Exit 28 of Interstate 93.
Rock Climbing Photo: WM: Waterville Valley area original map from visit...
WM: Waterville Valley area
original map from

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.4 miles from here

237 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',22],['3 Stars',83],['2 Stars',93],['1 Star',37],['Bomb',2]

Classic Climbing Routes in WM: Waterville Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for WM: Waterville Valley:
Tomahawk   V2+ 5+     Boulder   Discovery Valley : The Discovery Boulder
The Bottom Falls Out   V3 6A     Boulder, 15'   Yellowjacket Area : Yellowjacket Boulder
Thank You for Holding   V3-4 6A+     Boulder   The Hive : Holds Boulder
Double Heelix   V4 6B     Boulder   Central Davis : The Widowmaker Area
Circle Circle   V4 6B     Boulder   Central Davis : Corridor Boulders
Trillium   V5 6C     Boulder, 15'   Yellowjacket Area : Yellowjacket Boulder
The Shutdown   V5 6C     Boulder   Lower Bowl : Shutdown Boulder
Mayhem   V5 6C     Boulder   Central Davis : Mayhem Boulder
The Thanksgiver   V5-6 6C+ R     Boulder   Central Davis : Corridor Boulders
We Who Wander    V7 7A+     Boulder   Lower Bowl : The Wander Boulder
The Flat Iron   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 180'   Dickey Ledge : East Slab
Lurking Right   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   Dickey Ledge : The Dark Side
Half Stack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad   Dickey Ledge : The Dark Side
Goosebumps   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Dickey Ledge : The Beach
Lurking in the Bushes   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 70'   Dickey Ledge : The Dark Side
Slab Therapy   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 40'   Dickey Ledge : The Beach
Hermits Hideout   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Dickey Ledge : The Dark Side
Subversive Behavior   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   Dickey Ledge : The Ocean
Brain Cramp   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 100'   Dickey Ledge : The Ocean
The Horcrux   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Dickey Ledge : South America Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in WM: Waterville Valley

Featured Route For WM: Waterville Valley
Rock Climbing Photo: Kayte on the first move of Podlings

Podlings V4 6B  New Hampshire : WM: Waterville Valley : ... : The Dark Crystal Boulder
This is the route that really makes The Dark Crystal Boulder unique! A series of pockets that traverse this side of the boulder and it's slightly overhanging angle combine for an excellent set of natural features.Start on the right side at a good pocket. Traverse the pods left then top out. Your feet will never be more then 3ft of the ground. The sit start (either continuing into Podlings or topping out straight up) is still a project. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Hampshire

Photos of WM: Waterville Valley Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Members Only 5.12A
Members Only 5.12A
Rock Climbing Photo: Butt Scum 5.10
Butt Scum 5.10
Rock Climbing Photo: Gorilla Head, Mount Osceola East, SW of Greeley Po...
Gorilla Head, Mount Osceola East, SW of Greeley Po...
Rock Climbing Photo: This is the belay rock at The Beach at  Dicky ledg...
BETA PHOTO: This is the belay rock at The Beach at Dicky ledg...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dickey's central and upper ledge and Dickey Traver...
Dickey's central and upper ledge and Dickey Traver...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cone Head Mt. Now on private property.
Cone Head Mt. Now on private property.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing in WV  Sex on the beach 5.11A
Climbing in WV Sex on the beach 5.11A
Rock Climbing Photo: Resident Evil 5.10
Resident Evil 5.10
Rock Climbing Photo: Sex on the beach
Sex on the beach
Rock Climbing Photo: South America Flake 5.11
South America Flake 5.11
Rock Climbing Photo: Fern Crack 5.11+
Fern Crack 5.11+

Comments on WM: Waterville Valley Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 13, 2012
By Tom Bowker
From: somewhere in the USA
Aug 26, 2009
For the adventurous climber Warerville Valley has a wealth of remote crags. :)
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Aug 26, 2009
Tom, which of the crags do you think has the highest concentration of climbing? What do you think is the best single route?
By john strand
From: southern colo
Feb 8, 2010
BITD Scottie Stevenson told me about a slab at Welch/Dickey that hecould not TR ! never got to it,any ideas ??????
By Tom Bowker
From: somewhere in the USA
May 8, 2010
Dickey has the highest concentration of routes. Some incredibly steep slab climbing in addition to steep cracks and moderate slabs.
John Strand, I think you'd love the place!
By bradley white
From: Bend
Oct 2, 2012
This is my original writing or authorship members are reading for this area and more.
This area and more I gave to MP. to own. Giving ownership to my climbing experiences is okay. Here it will remain, correct historically and I can see myself like I am on T.V.
I knew MP could do what they wanted with it. My shit, the most shit on Waterville Valley, that I gave, out. Has the updated submitter, appearing as the authorship been to all those places I submitted earlier? Done any climbing there? Then remove my writing also. I don't have access to what was mine anymore, the edit properties. I lost that during the update. Write from your own experiences now, please. I feel like a ghost writer and don't like it. This past year the writing stayed and I disappeared for a while. I am back writing a lot about it because we are together again. Verbalizing!
Why did my submitted area leave during the update?
How many updates are happening right now like this(I doubt I am the only person or member experiencing omission after an update)?
Does the update person or members earn the same area points for an area updated this way? That would be quite corrupted.
Absolute power corrupts absolutely
None the less is where I came from or knowing more and sharing nothing about it, can be back for now. I won't regain much now, just a little dignity, all of my authorship is incorruptible, and I have gained a few comment points.
Those have no value to them now because I have lost trust in MP currently. It used to back up it membership's communal effort. I tried to get through to a top member once also. Repeatedly, no reply. Isn't he a wise guy.
Seems administration at MP is updated things in 2011.
Update this. I Got here by accident today. Now an Unfortunate incident of plagiarizers but, not, because I agreed to this in signing up for MP membership. Come on, this isn't as far as you can go. Put your names onto my route descriptions. Complete the set.
I think for a while I will give comments only to be owned by MP. Militaristic policy, here is my first comment, Your'e too much.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 3, 2012
Bradley, in all honesty i don't understand what you mean here... did your entry get changed? i am listed as the submitter but i didn't write it and i don't know how that happened... if you can tell me simply what the problem is perhaps i can help fix it...
By bradley white
From: Bend
Oct 9, 2012
Two wrongs, blew my mind. That lit the fuse too burn. Especially the disinformation. The 7+ cracks photos are way wrong.
I'm going to leave up this exasperated comment because my psyche or I am off the wall and gets pleased sometimes with its over active imagination. I knew there was going to be trouble when Cone Head Mt. was entered by another member as an area.
The submission, appearance is all there is. I don't appear as the submitter author and shit happens. I don't want to control the area again. I like its set up and it should stay as it is. I got Waterville Valley percolating in 09. That was cool and this would not have happened without MP.
By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Oct 10, 2012
non applicable comments...what dose this mean? dose it mean that his comments had swears in them?
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Oct 10, 2012
Well, whatever's going on, I think Waterville needs a better description than what's above, as the above description refers directly to Cone Head Mountain, and not Waterville as a general area. Bradley, what if we integrate your description above into Cone Head? Someone then should write up a description of Waterville in general.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Oct 10, 2012
That sounds like a job for you, with your English skills, Jay. With some willing collaboration we can get good clear information for this area. Tom Bowker would be one to ask if he could add to Bradley's work.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Oct 10, 2012
Bradley, I copied some of your information from here and included it in the Conehed section in quotes. I think it helps fill out the understanding that it is a leave no trace crag on private property.
By bradley white
From: Bend
Oct 20, 2012
Thanks for clearing the authorship up and your welcome to edit it. Make the whole area the best article it can be. Tom Bowker's knowledge to approaches of crags would be beneficial to most areas. It is a huge amount of land to describe and then the climbing.
Cone Head, I am becoming more skeptical to it being permissible. It has been many years since I got permission. The crag is a nightmare of dangerous rock surfaces. On many climbs protection is a joke because of the crags high mica content in the rock. For some reason it became a favorite place to climb and never mind just place pro. Kept on trying to find a decent protected route though and came up with two or three. The owner lives directly below. I recommend he is informed of your presence. Don't go up without a note on your car why you are on his land.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Oct 29, 2012
South of the ridge line from Mount Osceola and East peak is supposed to be loaded with massive boulders
By john strand
From: southern colo
Oct 30, 2012
More than huge mark, and so many
By M Sprague
From: New England
Oct 30, 2012
Sweet! I hope to take a hike in there before the snow sticks and have a look. I hear it is nice fresh, non rotten rock.
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Oct 30, 2012
What trail would these boulders be located on? I would love to check out the boulders too!
By john strand
From: southern colo
Oct 31, 2012
I remember coming in from the Kanc,,, Osceola trail ??? A bit of bushy-ness. I guess you could go in from below. Most of the bike access is off limits now.
By bradley white
From: Bend
Nov 3, 2012
The largest and dangerous walking through them boulder field I have been to is below a south east cliff band. Most of the furthest south cliff is sheered off. Below it in the woods are large boulders. Very dark area and we walked on top of them.
We got to there by being first on the Greeley Pond trail from Waterville Valley side. A lot of this should be open to biking in and maybe all of it. A ways up the trail is the main logging rd heading left uphill. Take that rd until it ends. Shortly before it ends you see the cliff. A short scramble right through some pine roots on top of scree field rocks brings you to the base. From here, there is about 1/4+ mile of walking at the banded cliffs bases. The cliff band gets shorter head north. Its got a nice view. I wouldn't consider it for bouldering in the forest. I and we were not looking for boulders. We were looking fo good climbing granite.
There are many boulders here with the correct granite grain. Below the scree like at Cannon cliff. Dangerous because someone almost fell down from the top of them. Those forest covered boulders have cave in steps for a unknowingly person. That person could end up between two large boulders going down fast.
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Nov 13, 2012
I rewrote the description above so that it refers more generally to the whole Waterville area. Bradley, I took your description, which seemed like it was mostly related to Cone Head, and added all of it as a comment under Cone Head Mountain.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Nov 13, 2012
"But people keep looking, hoping to stumble upon the next Main Cliff..."

Dude, it is out there. It is like a diamond in the rough, just waiting to be cut free, lol.
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Nov 13, 2012
Just keep believing that Mark... :)

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