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Waterval Boven

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Waterval Boven Rock Climbing 

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Location: -25.6401, 30.32849 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Michael Sullivan, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Miyako on May 30, 2014
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Tim Kluckow on Urisk the rustic brownie 23/5.11b/6...


Waterval Boven has a lot to offer : more than 500 sport climbs from 5.4 to 5.14, some excellent trad and for every grades there is many beautiful lines. Climbing is mostly vertical or gently overhanging sometimes with overlaps and roofs. The rock here is is not a juvenile 100,000 year-old limestone, it is a 2.3 billion year old quartzite! On magnificent orange faces you will build endurance, technique, precise footwork and finger strength.

For 15 years Alex and Gustav devoted energy and passion to ease your stay and make sure you get the best of this exceptional location. There expertise is precious. Make sure you contact them. Their office / climbing equipment shop and rental are easily found. It is on the main road in Boven, not even a mile after your right turn from the N4, on the opposite corner of the Shamrock Arms Irish pub. tel# +27(0)132570363


South Africa is in the southern hemisphere so seasons are the opposite of Europe and North America. Keep in mind that the African winter is dry and the summer is wet.

You can enjoy Boven’s climbing almost any time of the year. From april to october there is very little rain (if any) with day temperatures from 45 to 70 and nights from sub zero to 40.

During the summer, it is rarely too hot since most of the crags are in the shade by midday and about 6000 feet above the sea-level. It normally stay under 85 but can be as cool as 60.

Bring a down jacket any time of the year. In mid-summer (late November to early February) you will also need a raincoat. Afternoon thundershowers are frequent but, after the rain, the rock dries very quickly so climbing is possible on most days.

If your schedule is open and you are looking for the best timing, September to early November and late February to end of May offers excellent weather and rain is very unlikely. You will also enjoy the scenery at his best; green and lush!


Situated few kilometres from the Wonderlands crags, the Roc’n Rope Climber’s Lodge is the original climbers hang-out in Boven. It offers dorms and double rooms at very reasonable price. There, you will have access to an exceptionally well equipped communal kitchen, hot shower, sunny deck with BBQ facilities, living room with fireplace, pool table, and secure parking space.

If you arrive as a group, you may be interested to rent the Orange house just beside the lodge. Also owned by Roc’n Rope, it has 3 bedrooms, 2 with double beds and one with two single. The kitchen is fully equipped, there is a sunny deck with gas BBQ, hot shower, a fireplace in the living room and a secure parking space. Its like home away from home at a very reasonable price.

If you want to stay at walking distance of the Wonderlands crags, you have the Tranquilitas Adventure Farm and camping There is a swimming pool, hot showers, fridges and fire sites. You can also rent one of the well equipped chalets or safari-tents. It can be very quiet during the weekdays unless it’s a holiday so if you are alone or want some company the Lodge would be your best option.

An other option is the Tegwan Retreat, halfway between the town and the Wonderlands crags. There is two large cottages sitting in a lush shady garden with a trout stream babbling past. For a big group it works out cheaper than the other self-catering options. Inquire at Roc’n Rope.


There is a ATM in the center of Boven. Withdrawal are limited to 2,000 ZAR.

In town, you can buy the basics in little shops or at the TARS Multisave supermarket. If you want very good fresh red meat, go at the butcher store on the other side of the railway track. Please encourage local economy as much as possible. For fresh products, you will have get to Nelspruit. It is the nearest big town and you will find more than what you can dream of.

On rest day you can hike or mountain bike around, arrange some kayaking or horse-riding, go trout-fishing. (it is trout country) Make sure you reserve some time to visit the world renown Kruger National Park. It is only one and a half hour away.

If you are in need of some civilization, Shopping Centres, cinemas, Coffee Shops head for Nelspruit. It is an hour drive from Boven. The Riverside Mall has it all.


PDF of Waterval Boven climbing guide

Mountain Club of South Africa

South Africa climbing site

Getting There 

From the Johannesburg (also name as Tambo) international airport, take the R21 south. Soon after follow the signs for the N12 east towards eMalahleni (Witbank). It will become the N4. Stay on it for a couple of hours. After the second toll gate, you will see the signs for for Waterval Boven. The right turn brings you to the center of the city and Roc’n Rope will be on your left just after the liquor store.

If you do not have a car, Lowveld Link offers transportation by small bus once a day. You do have to make a reservation. You do have to make a reservation. They do not stop at the airport if there is no pick-up. They will leave you at the intersection of the N4 and the main of Boven, about a mile from Roc’n Rope office and the Lodge.

Climbing Season

Weather station 15.9 miles from here

138 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',18],['3 Stars',65],['2 Stars',48],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Waterval Boven

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Waterval Boven:
Angel of Mercy   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   The Wonderland crags : Hallucinogen Wall
Snakeskin Safari Suit   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   The Wonderland crags : Hallucinogen Wall
Endless Blowjob   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   Tranquilitas Crag : Grunt Area
Freak-On   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   The Wonderland crags : The God No! Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Waterval Boven

Featured Route For Waterval Boven
Rock Climbing Photo: Rope in Angel of Mercy

Angel of Mercy 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  Africa : South Africa : ... : Hallucinogen Wall
Start on big flake to get to some very nice face climbing. It is a classic where you get to practice your layback and crack skills. Very nice. (South Africa grade 16)...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Waterval Boven Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Waterval Boven, South Africa - The Last Crag of th...
Waterval Boven, South Africa - The Last Crag of th...

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