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Lonely Challenge Area
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Broken Dreams T 
Eternal Flow S 
Gnawing on the Rind T 
Lone Man Running T 
Notch Arête, The T 
Potato Chip, The T 
Slab, The T 
Watermelon Tetris S 
Zen and the Art T 

Watermelon Tetris 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Charles Nolt and Brent Barghahn 8/2016
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 574
Submitted By: Brent Barghahn on Aug 28, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Emily up high on lead

Description 

A lovely way to begin the day at Lonely Challenge area. A shallow right leaning dihedral system with comfy bolts and airy toes. Careful footwork will stem you up with little difficulty.

Begin at the smooth face with slopey ledges ramping in from the left. A few tricky buldges carry you through the midway technical crux. Blind jugs are hidden throughout.

Location 

The bolted right leaning line in the ripples just left of the obvious arete. Right of Eternal Flow.

Protection 

10 bolts plus anchor with chains. The leaning nature of this route requires a follower to clean, lowering will put you 30ft right of the start.

Coming up the main talus slope stay RIGHT in the larger and more consolidated talus, AVOIDING obvious worn switchbacks in the middle (slippery and sketchy scree). About halfway up the slope there is a large pine that you can go around on its right. Switchbacks marked with cairns and logs start here and continue up to the wall. Belay is a flattened stance. 20 minutes.

Sunny in the morning, full shade starts early afternoon. The narrow gully stays cool.


Photos of Watermelon Tetris Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The full route
BETA PHOTO: The full route
Rock Climbing Photo: Emily feeling the lean
Emily feeling the lean
Rock Climbing Photo: Charles at the chains during development, fixed li...
BETA PHOTO: Charles at the chains during development, fixed li...
Rock Climbing Photo: The upper stemming bits
BETA PHOTO: The upper stemming bits
Rock Climbing Photo: The first bolt
The first bolt
Rock Climbing Photo: Charles tops the FA.
BETA PHOTO: Charles tops the FA.

Comments on Watermelon Tetris Add Comment
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By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 1, 2016
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Great route with fun tricky moves on rock that keeps improving the higher you get. Lots of low juggy feet to offset some pretty thin hand holds. A much needed warm-up for the area and it felt very well protected.

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