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All Winter Ice Routes - Chimney Pond & other Sub-Areas
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Chimney, The T 
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Pamola's Fury Left 
Waterfall Gully T 

Waterfall Gully 

WI4

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 1000', Grade IV
Original: WI4 [details]
FA: Mark Lawrence & Bob Proudman (march 1973)
Page Views: 2,045
Submitted By: angeloks on Feb 6, 2015

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Marc-Antoine on the crux.

Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit

Description 

This is a long alpine route requiring most of the day to complete, be sure to get an early start.
Walk to the range cabin and cross Chimney pond. Scamble through the snow and rocks to the base of the climb. It is the obvious line between Chimney gully and Cilley-Barber. It’s the big and impressive frozen waterfall.
The first pitch (WI3) brings you an ice ledge where you can belay. Then traverse the snow patch to reach the crux of the route: an impressive 45m gully of WI4 (or WI4+ if you go left), protected from the wind. Toping out of the second pitch, there is a good belay on a rock. From this point, you can abseil down if you the weather isn’t good, if it’s too late or if you don’t feel like climbing a long and steep snow gully. In any case, if you haven’t cleared the crux by noon, you should retreat.
If reaching the Knife’s Edge is your objective, follow the snow gully which « slowly turns a dog-leg right » (according to An Ice Climber’s Guide to Northern New England). You can simul-climb using snow pickets for protection or simply solo. Beware of avalanches. Keep climbing until you reach the summit ridge. Turn left and traverse the Knife’s Edge until you reach Pamola Peak and go down via Dudley Trail or decent via the Saddle Trail located a the far right end of the ridge past Baxter Peak.

Location 

It is the obvious line between Chimney gully and Cilley-Barber.

Protection 

Standard ice rack.


Photos of Waterfall Gully Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Waterfall gully
Waterfall gully
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch One 6am
Pitch One 6am
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 4 (Symo. Climb)
Pitch 4 (Symo. Climb)
Rock Climbing Photo: Above the crux and into the long snow climb to the...
Above the crux and into the long snow climb to the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch One Peter
Pitch One Peter
Rock Climbing Photo: The Crux
The Crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Pete Anania on the Crux
Pete Anania on the Crux
Rock Climbing Photo: The Route
The Route
Rock Climbing Photo: Alpine Start to our 12 hr. day on Day 3 of the exp...
Alpine Start to our 12 hr. day on Day 3 of the exp...
Rock Climbing Photo: Belay Below the Crux
Belay Below the Crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Descending Knife Edge
Descending Knife Edge
Rock Climbing Photo: Descending Dudley.
Descending Dudley.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Knife's Edge at last!
The Knife's Edge at last!
Rock Climbing Photo: Simul-climbing the long snow gully.
Simul-climbing the long snow gully.
Rock Climbing Photo: Belay after the crux.
Belay after the crux.

Comments on Waterfall Gully Add Comment
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By Dan Flynn
Administrator
From: MA
Jan 22, 2016

On a short daylight day (early Jan), we did it like this:
Start hiking 4:45, bushwhacked through deep snow and got to base at 7.
Topped out the ice 10am. Great conditions above and we were at the ridge at noon. Crossing the knife edge was fun and easy until the last bit, Chimney Peak, which we ended up rapping down into the snow saddle to Pamola Peak. Started hiking down Dudley trail around 3, back at the cabin 5:30.

Awesome route, all sections really fun (except the downscramble on Dudley trail!)

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