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Waterboys 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: someone awesome
Season: spring/summer/fall
Page Views: 1,278
Submitted By: Joe Lee on Aug 18, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: Climber starting up the thrid pitch, and one of t...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Two pitches of fun climbing capped by a delightfully long left facing corner.

P1: Fifth class up a slightly mossy start directly under the route. Sporty moves down low get you started.

P2: The start is a bit spooky on perfect varnish. Another sporty section that protects and climbs nicely.

P3: Long pitch. Perfect rock. Cruise (or struggle) past some wide sections. Savor the slightly intimidating stretch of perfect fingers. Then jam your way through various sizes to the anchor.

Location 

Route goes up the large left facing corner that defines the right side of the Cauldron wall.

Rap with one 70 meter rope. On the first rap descend climber's left to anchors on The Regatta. Easy to get too. Continue down The Regatta. Down climb a bit after last rap.

Protection 

Doubles up to 2". Singles up to 5". Would bring one 00 C3 for pitch 2. Strong parties will not need anything over 3"


Photos of Waterboys Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Party of three on Waterboys. First anchor is a fix...
BETA PHOTO: Party of three on Waterboys. First anchor is a fix...

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By TactiCool
From: Republic Of Korea (Temporarily)
Aug 20, 2016

Combine the first two pitches.
Every pitch has some vegetation/bushes/weeds that can get in the way. Upper portion of pitch 3 is covered in bird poop. The moss clumps on the wall can disintegrate and fill your eyes with moss dust. Yer gonna die!
By Bradley Gorsline
From: Pasadena, California
Apr 17, 2017

The first two pitches on this climb are pretty good, but the last pitch is an amazing ~150 foot perfect crack that's mostly fingers with some sections of every other size too. You can rap the route in two raps with two 60 foot ropes. All the anchors are bolted as of 4/16/2017.
By Jorge Jordan
Sep 21, 2017

Was much happier to have a set of RP's than a 00 or 000 for that short thin section on P2.

Really great route the whole way.

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