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Walt's Wall
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5.7 Cracks T 
Boulder Exit 9 T 
Edward's Crack T 
Edward's Crack, Left Exit T 
Edward's Crack, Right Friction Finish T 
Foolishness T 
Fourth Of July Crack (Hard Promises) T 
Friction Slide T,S,TR 
Friday's Follies aka Water Streak T,TR 
Gill Seam, The 
Heroes Become Weak 
In Through The Out Door (formerly entered as Water Streak II) T,S 
Jacquot's Face T 
Jake Direct T 
Jake's Variation S 
Mantle Route AKA Koedt's Route TR 
Ripmaster T 
Satterfield's Crack T 
Sisca Face T 
Tourist Trap T 
Walt's Wall T 
Weak Become Heroes 
Unsorted Routes:

Friday's Follies aka Water Streak 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Jeb Schenk, 1972
Season: Summer/Fall
Page Views: 821
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Aug 30, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: A somewhat foreshortened view of the route from th...

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


Beginning at the chain anchor on the first Walt's Wall belay ledge, traverse right and then diagonally upward to the nearest line of 3 widely spaced bolts. The bolt line is followed over very slick and water polished rock, very conservatively rated at "5.9+," but is realistically more like 5.10a/b. The short route may be extended a few more feet by veering slightly right to a fourth bolt (Kopischka finish) and reaching the belay ledge. The Kopischka finish is probably 5.10b, although Layne rated it as 5.10a immediately after the first ascent of the variation. Rappel from the bolt anchor, or continue to the top of Walt's Wall and use the walk-off.


The route begins at the chain anchor atop the first pitch of the standard Walt's Wall route.

Descend from ledge on which the route terminates by rappel using the Walt's Wall rappel route.


Four quickdraws are needed if the Kopischka finish is selected, in addition to a very light rack to protect the opening traverse moves.

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By Rodger Raubach
Aug 30, 2012

I'm adding this comment to clarify what I viewed as a confused situation with "In the Out Door," and "formerly Water Streak II." Above, I've described the original Water Streak route as it was described to me back in the early 1970s by Jeb Schenk. I finally got around to doing the route twice when I again visited Laramie in the mid 1980s, by which time it was an accepted route. My wife led the route in July, 1986, and later that day, Layne Kopischka was up drilling the 4th bolt for the "Kopischka Finish." He described it to me as 5.10a at that time, but almost everyone else seems to think 10b is more accurate. I hope this clarifies the situation?
By Ross Philip
From: Boulder, Colorado
Sep 18, 2013

This climb is called "Friday's Follies 5.9+" in "The Voo" guidebook by Orenczak and Lynn.
By Rodger Raubach
Jul 14, 2015

The difficulty rating of this climb varies with the stature of the leader; for anyone short, the final moves are pretty reachy and would be 5.10a; but for taller climbers, the 5.9+ rating is accurate.

P.S. My wife was only 5' tall, and she really had to make an extra, very difficult move.
By Jeb Schenck
Apr 19, 2017

I think Rodger's rating is accurate. I'm 6'5", and the reach was long but ok. The key were the thin moves on the slab getting onto the little nub. All original bolts were done in accepted style of on-lead, which was interesting because the winds can get gusty at times while balancing...hence my original name; Friday Follies. We actually filmed the first asc. What a laugh!

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