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Water Streak 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b X

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b X [details]
FA: Kurt Shier
Page Views: 4,015
Submitted By: Adam Peters on Jan 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Almost to the anchors on p1 of this sweet climb.

  • This area is designated as Charon MORE INFO >>>
  • Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    On the Left side of Elk Slabs, climb up through a small roof where you can get some gear. Step up and continue up the 'water streak' without pro until you reach the two bolt anchor. Belay from here and then head up and to the left.


    gear up to 3" and a few QD's

    Photos of Water Streak Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Sometimes its all about the angle.  Mike Dec 2008 ...
    Sometimes its all about the angle. Mike Dec 2008 ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Keith on Water Streak Dec 2008.  It is not as stee...
    Keith on Water Streak Dec 2008. It is not as stee...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mike on Water Streak Dec 2008
    Mike on Water Streak Dec 2008

    Comments on Water Streak Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Craig Childre
    From: Lubbock, Texas
    Dec 17, 2007

    First Ascent is listed as Kurt Shier and party.
    By Mike Harris DFW
    From: DFW, Texas
    Mar 28, 2011

    The route description says 120' climb. That is just the first pitch. Which, at that point leaves you in the middle of the slab. Add about another 110' +/- for the second pitch. From the top, rap with two 60m ropes and angle for a ledge to the right then down climb.
    By Jon Wood
    May 8, 2012
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X

    • **The R Rated Version***
    We were a little sketched out about leading this x rated route with out having seen it up close. So we climbed great expectations and rapped down it after reaching the anchors for it. We discovered it is possible to top rope the first pitch with a 60 meter rope. Climb both pitches of Great Expectations or the Dihedral. Rap down to the first set of anchors, clip in, and set it up. We used standard over the shoulder slings and a few ovals. Gave us some piece of mind our first time up. There is some polish on some of the footholds. It's not a hard route, but very nervy on lead. The second pitch is run out to, but there is a place for a piece about twenty feet from the top where you can put a piece in. I found a great spot for a green tri-cam used as a chock. It's pretty low angle at this point, but I like to feel safe. There's a video on my facebook page if you want to take a look.
    By Craig Childre
    From: Lubbock, Texas
    May 17, 2012

    Not to diminish the head games this route can play on lead. Once you turn onto the slab section, it's easy 5.5-6 climbing to the chains. The X is warranted, but unless your slab technique is near zero, you shouldn't be intimidated by this rewarding lead.
    By Henry Holub
    From: Altus, Ok
    Apr 22, 2016

    About 15 feet off the ground is a flat hold on the top of a rock that is detaching from the face. Pull down, not out. It ends up being a great foot placement just below the shelf/overlap

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