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Water Rites 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Clay Stoner (7/17/2011)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 33
Submitted By: Clay Stoner on Jul 17, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Water Rights as seen from the trail

Description 

Water Rites starts up a vertical, pocketed face, which leads to a bulge at the 4th bolt (1st crux), Climb left on a smooth hand ledge and continue up and through the roof (2nd crux) with a committing throw for a ledge above the roofs 1st bolt. There are cold shuts below the roof, so if you want to clip them, use a runner. The 1st shuts were done because the key roof pocket drips water. The first accent was done when the pocket was wet so don't be discouraged if it is. Things might dry up eventually but there must be some drainage through the rock. It goes around 5.10c if wrapping off the first shuts.

Location 

This route falls between the bridge and Happy trails. Found about 100 yards up from the bridge on the trail side of the canyon, Water Rites is only 20 feet off the trail just past school house rock (a chert covered slab on the riverside). There is a trail that cuts up just past school house (don't go directly up bellow the route since there is a forest of poison ivy). Water rights is the first route encountered on this trail.

Protection 

5 bolts to first cold shuts (5.10c), then 2 more bolts to cold shuts (5.11). 8 total if clipping shuts


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