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East Face - 2nd Tier
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Martian Route S 
Water Gully S 

Water Gully 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 927
Submitted By: Ryan Carlino on Apr 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Shot of the 3 fixed anchors. These are right above...

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Description 

Begin behind a small juniper bush. There's a block you can undercling and then mantle. From there to points right you could climb anywhere on the face. Head to the drilled pin and then to the cave. Pass it on the right side up a cool gully to the top.

Location 

It is on the "second tier" of Keyhole. From the South End Topropes of Kindergarten (Cathedral), hike west, uphill on a dirt trail to a saddle. The second tier is on your right. You can access the top of the climb by hiking around back, into a small canyon between 2 fins. A little hiking gets you to a place where you can walk on top of the fin of interest. Pass a large boulder and walk the top of the fin to the anchors.

Protection 

1 drilled pin and a piton in the cave. 5.7R in the book. I'd TR from the Martian Route anchors.


Photos of Water Gully Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber toproping Water Gully.  You'd need some se...
BETA PHOTO: Climber toproping Water Gully. You'd need some se...
Rock Climbing Photo: Shot of Martian Route and Water Gully. Route lines...
BETA PHOTO: Shot of Martian Route and Water Gully. Route lines...

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By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jul 17, 2008

Led this today. I'd highly recommend you TR it, as the first bolt is high enough to lead to some broken ankles if you miss some of those first difficult moves. Fun route altogether, if short.

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