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Water Cracks 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
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Page Views: 1,213
Submitted By: Tristan B on Jun 27, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Stemming for the opening moves of water crack. Can...

Description 

This route is pretty fun. It’s a little sketchy because of the lichen and the ¼ bolts, but it feels like something in Yosemite. It has some nice spots for gear and bring some thin slings or nuts to cinch off some studs.

Start off with a tricky move and clip the first ¼ in bolt, then I put a cam in about 2 feet above that, then about 5 more feet to the next ¼ in bolt and I put a purple BD cam in right next to it and equalized them. Then 2 ¼ studs that I tied off with a thin sling. Then clip one more ¼ bolt and top out. The anchors are real bad on the route, so I traversed right and put a sling on a small bush and then finished up slot machine (1 more ¼ bolt and a spot for a BD #3 and BD #4 cam) to a solid anchor on a ledge.

Location 

Up in the little mini cave just to the left of slot machine.

Protection 

A few small to medium cams and nuts/thin slings to tie off studs


Photos of Water Cracks Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bring some nuts, rivit hangers, or thin dyneema sl...
BETA PHOTO: Bring some nuts, rivit hangers, or thin dyneema sl...
Rock Climbing Photo: A zoomed in view of the protection.
A zoomed in view of the protection.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sketchy anchors at the top. (Can be avoided - Trav...
Sketchy anchors at the top. (Can be avoided - Trav...
Rock Climbing Photo: Water Cracks
Water Cracks

Comments on Water Cracks Add Comment
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By Aaron covington
From: Pinon hills, ca
Dec 24, 2014

Be careful on the second pitch, one bolt to a run out. You have to sling a tree and hike around. not worth the hassle because the first part is the fun one!
By Ethan Bridwell 1
From: littlerock CA
Apr 20, 2015

agreed the bottom is the highlight of this climb gives you a crazy feeling clipping the 1/4 bolts
By alex carey
Oct 11, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

I stemmed pretty wide in the beginning and put in a #1 i think. Felt like a pretty scary start. Plenty safe after the first move though.

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