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Shana Grant S 
Shovling-Cole T 
Southeast Corner T 
Southwest Passage T 
Sympathy to the Devil T 
Trapeze  T 
Underpass T 
Upper Right Ski Track T 
Water Chute T 
West Chimney T 
Zigzag T 

Water Chute 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: John Wolfe 1968
Page Views: 2,279
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 24, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (46)
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Past both cruxes, easy to the top.


This route is the aptly named broad groove just 8' right of the direct Start to Mike's Books on the SE end of the Intersection Rock.

The meat of the route is divided into two cruxes, the first of which is getting more than one move off of the ground by pulling/pushing onto a left-leaning flake off of a sloper foot. Wide stemming makes this easier and more secure for the flexible people. Another (easier) crux lies perhaps 15 or 20 feet up, above a so-so TCU placement. One bolt remains on the route, and others were either broken or chopped, which is hard to say. The route is somewhat runout, but for the real crux you need a spotter, not protection.

Rap from the fixed chains on the ledge.


bolt ( 1/2" stainless steel bolt & rock colored SS hanger courtesy of the ASCA, June 2017), standard rack (you can lead this with a few TCU's and the fixed gear)

Photos of Water Chute Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Water Chute
Water Chute
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up The Waterchute.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up The Waterchute.
Rock Climbing Photo: Hagny working the crux, looking for crimps.
Hagny working the crux, looking for crimps.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bouldering The Direct Start To Water Chute.
Bouldering The Direct Start To Water Chute.
Rock Climbing Photo: Where the going gets good on Water Chute
Where the going gets good on Water Chute

Comments on Water Chute Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 2, 2017
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 4, 2003

This was the first 5.9 I ever climbed (original rating), and I've probably fallen off the first move more than anyone. The first move used to be doable by a horrible rounded layback, but as this because greased up it became near impossible. The upper crux is very frustrating as well.
By Woody Stark
Oct 13, 2004

In the dim past we considered the first move off the ground 5.8; but, as Randy makes clear, it's well beyond that now; and, if you try it, you'll probably rip open your left shin when your foot slips. Dick Webster used to run at it and leap into the bottom of the chute and spread his knees to grab hold. I tried that once--only once.

One can bypass the greasy move into the bottom of The Waterchute by climbing the face to its right then stepping over into it. This approach is no more than 5.9. It's unprotected so have a spot. By doing this, the route is 5.9. The original approach--to me--isn't worth the bleeding shin you're likely to get if you blow it.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Nov 8, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I did this thing pretty ugly I am sure... I am glad it is over!!!...
By Ian McEleney
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Mar 16, 2007

I found the second crux to be at the bolt, though it was easier than getting off the ground. Hexes were helpful in the flare above the bolt. To me the alternate start seemed harder than 5.9. If you're going to skip the original start, don't bother with the route, it's half the "fun".
By Adam Kimmerly
May 6, 2008
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13

There is another way to do the start other than the hard lieback. It involves a stem move and a hand-foot match. Flexibility is a must, but if you have it, it's far easier than the slick lieback.
By Shaun Purvis
Dec 15, 2009

I enjoyed this climb. I've seen people top-rope it and stem the whole thing in a very insecure manner. But leading it chimney style was interesting and with cams for pro no longer deserves the R rating.
By JJ Armstrong
Jan 20, 2010

This thing is one my favorite routes on the formation. The key to getting started is with a good spot and a left high foot. Once you have made entry, you will start your road to ecstasy. You can also traverse from the right, but it feels sketchy. However, it is not to bad once you commit. Left side in and some good smears on the right side will propel you to the top. Have Fun!!!
PS. Don't do this in the sun!
By John Long
Jul 19, 2011

This route has always been 5.10a or so and was the first 5.10 route Rick Accomazzo, Richard Harrison and I ever did. I chimneyed the slot above the mantle, not knowing how to chicken wing. Climbed it the old red PAs. Dicey!

By Mike Fogarty
From: La Quinta, CA
Mar 7, 2012

Through the years i have found four different ways to enter this climb, was always fun, the crux is jus past the first bolt.
By Jeff Laina
From: Southern, New Mexico
Apr 7, 2012

A favorite of mine on our Nighttime Bouldering Circuit 1980s. Which is to Climb the First Ten or Fifteen Feet, Touch The First Bolt, Then Downclimb it. Fun!
By Ben Philbrick
From: lucerne, switzerland
May 14, 2012

i chicken winged my ass off the ground, and cursed my life as i made my way up. i'll remember that route for a long time.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Mar 18, 2013

Hopped on this after doing Mike's Books. Thought, "How hard could a 5.9 be? Let's just do it really fast." I forgot it was "Old School"...
By Dimes
From: Joshua Tree, Ca.
Jun 2, 2017

The lone bolt on this was replaced today with a 1/2" stainless steel bolt with a rock colored SS hanger courtesy of the ASCA.

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