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Watchtower Main

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beef Jerky T 
Benediction T 
Broken Serenity T,TR 
Confessional, The T,TR 
Crown of Thorns S 
Dark Rose S 
Dirge, The S 
Double Cross T 
Extreme Unction T,TR 
Feels like Nadine T 
Final Prayer Variation T 
Fire and Brimstone T 
Fishlips T 
Fortress T 
Garden of Eden T 
Hellfire Variation T 
Holy Grail T 
Hungry for Heaven S 
Inner Light TR 
Invocation S 
Outer Darkness T 
Reach the Beach T,TR 
Revelation, The S 
Rosary, The T 
Spirit Prison S 
Total X T,S 
Total X 2 T 

Watchtower Main Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: grk10vq on Dec 19, 2009
This Afternoon

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One of the first and largest buttresses you'll reach when hiking up Ferguson Canyon, The Watchtower's main area holds the largest concentration and largest variety of classics. You haven't experienced Ferguson until you've climbed at The Watchtower.

Encompassing almost all styles of climbing, the main Watchtower routes will not disappoint. Holding a little bit of everything, including sport lines, trad lines, and mixed lines, this token buttress keep you coming back for more.

The Main Watchtower routes extend from the entrance of the canyon starting with Double Cross and follow the trail along the base of the buttress ending in The Fortress area with Total X.


Hike up the main trail from the parking lot until you cross the Twin Peaks Wilderness Boundry. The Watchtower is the first and largest pile of rock you'll meet on the right, south side.

Climbing Season

Weather station 0.3 miles from here

27 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Watchtower Main

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Watchtower Main:
The Confessional   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Inner Light   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Hellfire Variation   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Extreme Unction   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Fire and Brimstone   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Total X   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Final Prayer Variation   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Benediction   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   
Invocation   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Fortress   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
The Dirge   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
Reach the Beach   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Dark Rose   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Fishlips   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 50'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Watchtower Main

Featured Route For Watchtower Main
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the the second roof on Extreme Unction

Extreme Unction 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Watchtower Main
Fun climbing on an upside-down staircase, then an easy face. The crux is at the big roof followed by another short easy face. Very varied. To find this route, follow the first main Watchtower wall around to the right into a corner and look for the upside-down staircase between two large chimmneys....[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Watchtower Main Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Watchtower Main / Extreme Unction
BETA PHOTO: Watchtower Main / Extreme Unction
Rock Climbing Photo: Routes just around the corner from Extreme Unction...
BETA PHOTO: Routes just around the corner from Extreme Unction...
Rock Climbing Photo: what route is this?  FINALY sent the damn thing an...
BETA PHOTO: what route is this? FINALY sent the damn thing an...

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