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Lower Religion Wall
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Watchtower AKA Last Temptation 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Chris Dunn and Jim Erdman,1992, FFA John Mattson, J. Burcham,1998
Season: Fall, Winter, Spring
Page Views: 3,236
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Aug 12, 2006

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The Watchtower. Tips and crimps at steep start an...


Super Classic dihedral on the Watchtower formation. Goes from crimps, to tips, to ever widening hands at the end of pitch one. Hardly anybody does the second pitch, and there is a pretty good reason for that.


It is really right there on your left if you are facing the Church Wall proper. Hard to miss!!


A #00 TCU and then doubles through #2 Camalot.

Photos of Watchtower AKA Last Temptation Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: James entering the stemming section
James entering the stemming section
Rock Climbing Photo: Stemming

Comments on Watchtower AKA Last Temptation Add Comment
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From: Chino Valley, AZ
Aug 22, 2007

I did the first ascent of this route/tower with Jim Erdman around 1990?. I led the first pitch and Jim led the second which is a sugary loose mess. It had this loose toadstool that could fall and kill the belayer. It might be gone now. We aided some on both pitches. Later, with Brian Smith, I traversed the limestone band to the left at the top of the first pitch to access the obvious wide crack on the south side. The traverse was easy but the crack to the top was pretty crummy like the original second pitch. No fun, and I had already been to the top so we bailed. I think this is still a better pitch than the original second pitch so somebody should go do it.

We named the formation The Watchtower and the original route The Last Temptation. I don't know if JM renamed it after the FFA.

By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 14, 2010

I think this pitch became known as the "Watchtower" simply because it is AWESOME, and there is really no other enjoyment to be had on this sub formation. Just do the first pitch, love it, and rap it! Unless you have a weird fetish for undesirable summits and really bad stone.
Jan 29, 2012

This right facing dihedral is stout for the grade, very fun!
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Jul 19, 2013

It has gotten a bit wider in about three spots. Last winter, a friend I belayed ripped three tiny pieces and the rock around them. Be careful and bury the gear deep enough. Good luck.
By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 19, 2013

That's too bad. Not a good route to fall on because the crux is low, and the gear is thin...
By Zach Harrison
Jan 27, 2015
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13

Awesome pitch! I would suggest doubling up the purple and green C3s and equalizing them with a sliding X. Did this and felt much better about potentially falling on the micro cams after seeing the track marks of the cams that have pulled out. It may be good rock, but its still Sedona!
By climnron
Jan 30, 2015

Huh. I did this back in 2008 and always felt it to be around 11c/d. I guess one man's 11 is another man's 12. . . Anyway, bummer about the ripped pieces. I thought the pieces were bomber, small, but pretty dang good placements with solid rock.
By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 6, 2015

There's a bomber yellow TCU / .4 placement in a horizontal pocket right before the thin crack starts and the route gets steep. That coupled with 2 each of gray and purple metolius sized cams keeps this a completely safe affair. Superb route, get on it!

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