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The Dark Passenger
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Watching Me 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Lee Hansche 9/12/17 (rope solo)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 20
Submitted By: lee hansche on Sep 13, 2017

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This should give you the right idea.

Description 

Fun slab climbing on immaculate rock. The ONLY down side to this one in my opinion is that the two engaging parts are split by a ledge in the middle. The first half is some of the best 5.6 friction climbing ive done and the top bit is a slightly harder puzzle to gain the chains.

You can top out the route and belay from a big ash tree if you are continuing on to one of the upper pitches. A quick scamper through the tree gets you to a comfy hang out spot and a few climbs.

Start on the right side of the slab on an obvious big hold. Use this to gain a stance and clip a bolt. Move up and left on to the dreamy slab and past 3 more bolts. At the ledge find the next couple of bolts and head that way. I dug out a crack on the right as the angle increases again. Clip 2 bolts without much trouble then smear your way up to the anchor (crux) as the wall steepens. Lower off or top out to belay from the tree.

Location 

Finding it is the crux but its not bad if you know where you are going. see the map. Basically as you are getting to the far left of the Dark Side you will see the flake start of View Finder Just before you get to View Finder head up left and zig zag the path of least resistance looking right toward the rock and you should see the perfect slab through the trees.

Protection 

6 bolts and a couple pieces of trad gear to a 2 bolt anchor. I used a #1 cam off the ground and a #3 in a dug out crack up on the ledge between the steeper sections.


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