|Type:||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]|
|FA:||Kris Kline - 1987|
|Submitted By:||andjoely on Apr 19, 2010|
|Comments on Waste Not, Want Not||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Decatur, GA
Apr 21, 2010
Mike Anderson wrote:
They aren't designed or rated for holding falls...body weight only.
For what it's worth, from the Trango website: "While these units [BallNutz] are excellent for clean aid . . . theyre also terrific for protecting free climbs."
From: western NC
Feb 13, 2012
|I believe that a tied off friend may work better than the .75 camelot in that shallow first placement. They tend to work well in these situations. I remember seeing KK place that for pro a few years back when he led it.|
By Joe Virtanen
From: Asheville, NC
Jul 1, 2015
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
The moves up to the first bolt are somewhat tenuous, but likely won't cast you off if you are ready for the solid mid-5.12 section through the other bolts and the wild crux at the top. In case you aren't psyched on the marginal gear and deck potential on the onsight burn, a toprope is easy to set up after doing Invisible Airwaves.
EDIT with some further gear beta: I placed the largest (red) BD brass offset in the seam just left of the resting jugs to protect the final lunge. The other gear I placed were the smallest X4 (left side) and a .4 C4 (right side pod) in the flake at the bottom, but I highly doubt either would hold a fall.