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Southern Hospitality Var. T 
Sperm, The T 
Waste Not, Want Not T,S 
Waverly Waster T 
Whitney's Excellent Route T 
Womb, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

Waste Not, Want Not 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Kris Kline - 1987
Page Views: 6,969
Submitted By: andjoely on Apr 19, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Eric Singleton sticking the crux on Waste Not Want...


This is an excellent slabby face climb which features thin liebacking, crimping, and just the right amount of protection for it to be cool without being too dangerous. The crux is inches before the ledge and some people do it as a dynamic lunge for the top and others do it statically. The route stays drier in rain than most of the other routes on the north side.


This climb follows the arching seam 20 feet right of the direct start to first pitch of invisible airwaves.


Mostly protected by bolts and a fixed pin. The only cams I remember that could be placed were a .5 camalot in a horizontal below the first bolt and a blue alien in a horizontal above the last bolt, but neither were good enough for me to expect them to hold a fall. Bring a variety of brass offset micro nuts and steel micro stoppers as well as the red ballnut if you want to sew up the crux at the top of the climb. The route can easily be toproped after climbing the first pitch of invisible airwaves.

Photos of Waste Not, Want Not Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pealing off at the crux
Pealing off at the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Kris Kline early on The Waste not , Want not at Lo...
Kris Kline early on The Waste not , Want not at Lo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Triple zero held
Triple zero held

Comments on Waste Not, Want Not Add Comment
Show which comments
By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
Apr 21, 2010

Mike Anderson wrote:
They aren't designed or rated for holding falls...body weight only.

For what it's worth, from the Trango website: "While these units [BallNutz] are excellent for clean aid . . . they’re also terrific for protecting free climbs."
By nbrown
From: western NC
Feb 13, 2012

I believe that a tied off friend may work better than the .75 camelot in that shallow first placement. They tend to work well in these situations. I remember seeing KK place that for pro a few years back when he led it.
By Joe Virtanen
From: Asheville, NC
Jul 1, 2015
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R

The moves up to the first bolt are somewhat tenuous, but likely won't cast you off if you are ready for the solid mid-5.12 section through the other bolts and the wild crux at the top. In case you aren't psyched on the marginal gear and deck potential on the onsight burn, a toprope is easy to set up after doing Invisible Airwaves.

EDIT with some further gear beta: I placed the largest (red) BD brass offset in the seam just left of the resting jugs to protect the final lunge. The other gear I placed were the smallest X4 (left side) and a .4 C4 (right side pod) in the flake at the bottom, but I highly doubt either would hold a fall.

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