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Waste Knot  

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 4,602
Submitted By: Kirtis Courkamp on Jul 16, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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Me on waste not


Your time will not be wasted when you climb this route; nor will it be wasted when you climb this route again because it was so dam fun. A steep wandering bolted route that uses a brilliant mix of large jugs and in-cut edges to provide an exhilarating experience. The route never seamed run out and was supper fun all the way to the top. My friend accidentally spelled the route like this Waist Knot ?? :) The bolt line can be challenging to spot but there are two little bushes growing out on this route.


On the SE corner of Tower of Teeth


8 bolts an an optional #1 master cam
Bonus Beta: extend every bolt other wise suffer from rope drag

Photos of Waste Knot Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Aprox Line
BETA PHOTO: Aprox Line

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Jul 16, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I believe the credit for the "official first accent" for this route has been lost to the annuals of time. However, an "updated" first accent can probably be credited to Darryl Stisser and Reggie Walters.

I also believe that this is one of those Black Hills climbs that falls into the category of "If you only have time for one climb at (insert location/at this grade) make it this one." THIS ROUTE IS SICK!
By t.schwartz
Jul 18, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

It is spelled Waste Knot.
By Dave Molash
From: Rapid City, SD
Jul 22, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I love the optional #1 mastercam for protection. Beware of breaking rocks when pulling the rope down! ^_^
By Wilson On The Drums
From: Woodbury, MN
Aug 9, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

long sling every bolt to minimize drag. awesome route that is very consistent and just keeps coming. this route is pg-13 for sure so be ready when you leave the ground. 15-20ft between each bolt.
By Alex Zucca
From: University Heights
May 20, 2016

You need 2 ropes to do this route. A 70m will leave your rope ends still 20 feet off the ground. Lead up the route, and belay the second from the top. Have your second bring up a second rope for the rappel.

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