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19 - New Diversions
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Burst of Brilliance T 
Chicken Pie T 
Cock Tart S 
Falcon T 
Jugs T 
New Deviations T 
New Diversions T 
Shake, Rattle, and Drop T 
Strangers In the Night T 
Tail End T 
Wasp T 


YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Steve Wunsch and Rab Carrington, 1972
Page Views: 577
Submitted By: Steve Annecone on Jan 4, 2011

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Exciting and fun climb just right of New Diversions. The route follows steep and smallish chickenheads for quite a while before merging with New D near the top of it's second pitch. Very interesting and delicate climbing in spots. Seemed very sustained and perhaps hard for the grade.


Starts in the gully just right of New D, following the very steep face/arete up and left. Rap from the top of the 2nd pitch of New Dimensions or head up one easy short pitch to the top and a walk off left.


The gear is mostly slung chickenheads, and some times these are thin and potentially friable. Best not to take any big falls and/or consider use of screamers if climbing at your limit. I recall some wired nuts and perhaps other small gear, but the chickenheads were key.

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By JoeS
Sep 29, 2011

I just noticed that you had posted this route today when I clicked on a photo of New Diversions. I still remember doing this route with you way back in the day. A good climb and I definitely recall that the nature of the climbing keeps one focused.
By Alexey
From: San Jose
Sep 29, 2011

There is a rumors that this climb is a big sandbag. Did not climbed it , but I like humor in Don Reid book - this one rated there as 5.9d
By Bryan G
From: Yosemite
Mar 30, 2013

I only slung two chickenheads. The corner takes good small gear the whole way and you have comfortable stances to place it from. This is assuming you take the variation that escapes left around the arete to join New Diversions at the hanging flake above the p1 anchors. The topo also shows a direct finish that continues straight up the thin corner after the knobs run out. The direct finish looked harder than 5.9 and you will probably want extra small gear and micro cams.
By emceewhitebread
Apr 26, 2016

No stars in the Reid was I pleasantly surprized. Mostly small gear, if your used to standing around (experienced) it ain't so scary. do the direct finish (up shallow corner on the right)!

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