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Hornets Nest
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W.A.S.P. (center variation start) T,S 

W.A.S.P. (center variation start) 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 165'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mike Engle, Linda Scneider--1987
Season: Any
Page Views: 3,381
Submitted By: joelhagan Hagan on Oct 24, 2007

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Mike on the arete

Check NPS for Closures


This is a nice solid 5.9 which is consistent and fun. The Bottom third is blocky/oververtical with big holds. The middle gets thin with nice little crimps. When in doubt, (you'll know it when you get there)go left even though there are temptations to the right. The distinct crux is at about halfway.
The cracks at the bottom are protectable with nuts or small cams and is one variation to W.A.S.P. The bolted route "pollinator" about 8 feet right of the crack also appears to be an excellent climb.
The flake I'm describing is at the edge of the shadow in the beta photo and is apparently the center version of the original start to W.A.S.P.


The center variation for W.A.S.P. is on the Southeast side of Hornet's Nest. Belay next to the ramp leading to the starts for the variations of waves.


This was originally well bolted on the upper section with 5 bolts and the original start being protectable with cracks and flakes (apparently somewhere up the gully between Hornet's Nest and Shipyard Rock). Bring at least 14 draws to get to the top. I would suggest using some shoulders length runners to avoid rope drag.
If you run out of draws or desire you can belay at a lower set of anchors on a very nice ledge, or continue through a nice chunky section to a great summit with excellent views. Both anchors require a two rope rappel if you aim the ropes to the base of the climb described.

Photos of W.A.S.P. (center variation start) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: mantel higher up
mantel higher up
Rock Climbing Photo: Closer look at the bottom crack
Closer look at the bottom crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Protectable crack is just at the edge of the shado...
Protectable crack is just at the edge of the shado...

Comments on W.A.S.P. (center variation start) Add Comment
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By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 20, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Spicy climb, especially for a 5.9. Keeps on going and going so be ready. Good climb though.

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