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Wasp Arete 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Brian Derrig
Page Views: 355
Submitted By: Clint Walker ATX on Mar 25, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: pic of wasp arete


Route starts under 45-degree nose. Gain the obvious hold then start up the lower nose with some rather sequency moves. Lower moves are V4. Fluid movements from here with a cryptic.

It's called Wasp Arete for a reason. Watch out for small wasp nests near the 3rd bolt along the underside of the small ledge features here.


Located on the left area of the main wall. Logical arete feature with 45-degree nose at bottom and smaller nose near top. Chains are short, one-link pieces.


First bolt is a little sketchy given exposed position. Bring a pad or stick clip the first for added protection on the start. Two remaining bolts are safe.

EDIT: This route is still chipping due to the flakyness of the stone and now appears to have lost a few of its more decent holds. The first bolt used to have a pretty good rest-hold that is now missing. The second bolt is still "safe" but given the frequency of chipping I bet that doesn't last long. The third bolt now feels much much harder to reach as well. Consider top roping this route by either climbing the 10b to the left of it or walking to the top and tossing the rope over.

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By Clint Walker ATX
From: Austin, TX
Sep 3, 2013

Due to the chossy nature of this area this route is on its way to becoming unclimbable for the greater majority of people who venture here. Many of the better holds have chipped away and many more are soon to follow. This route feels much more desperate now - likely much harder now than 12b.
By Erik Wessner
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Aug 2, 2015

With the broken holds this climb is pretty much at my limit right now, I failed to redpoint at least a dozen time before finally sending. After 3 long nights of working this I would call it 12d/13a. Has anyone else tried this recently?
By Clint Walker ATX
From: Austin, TX
Aug 17, 2015


Glad someone out there got on it and clipped the chains. Be honest - how many holds did you pop off in your endeavour?
By Bderrig
Apr 16, 2016

When I first put it up, I went right and had to do about six moves to get orient a thumb latch directly above the bolt which then let me shoot out right to the first good hold. A few years ago I noticed that at least one hold was missing and it looked liked someone was trying to chip it. New beta is to reach left around the arete for a thin sidepull that lets you blindly switch feet on the clipping hold for the first bolt. With that beta it was maybe a little harder but not much (just mental). I haven't been out there in a few years though so maybe it's worse.

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