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Washboard 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13 [details]
FA: B. Russell & Greg Leach 2004
Page Views: 121
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Jul 12, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: RW at the Alternate Start for Washboard

Description 

START: Either at the very toe of the slab, or (easier and with cleaner rock) on the far left end of a sloping dirt ledge. I.e. about 20 ft left, and 5-6 ft below, the large Oak Tree of Groov'in. This start is 20-30 ft RIGHT of the usual start, and is above and to the left of the "toe" of the slab.

Climb up past 2 overlaps (gear possible) and then up past at least TWO(2) new, 3/8" SS bolts (right in the dark lichen/moss) to the Groov'in 2-bolts-with-chains anchor. On the way there's one more gear placement possible.

According to Handren's guide this climb was first done on gear only, then bolts added by mistake.

I have retained the 5.6 rating, but my guess is this rating was given to the climb because as a "gear only" climb it would have been pretty 'concerning' for most 5.5 (and even 5.6) leaders, but with the bolts I'd give it a 5.4 - 5.5. Using the RIGHT-hand start, no move is as hard as the crux of Groov'in.

"CLEAN LAUNDRY" Variation: Avoid the moss, climb the clean rock just left of the dark lichen/moss. About 5.4 Top Rope or 5.4 R/X

Protection 

Small cams and a purple or green ( 0.5 or 0.75) Camalot. Draws for the bolts.


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